PS. It' Raining

Nick
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Buenos Aires

Drove Tucuman - Cordoba and spent a very nice evening with Agustin, Lucia and the twins; Argentine parilla until the early hours of the morning followed by too much fernet. The following day they had work so we met for lunch (just as I was packing it started raining). After a casual coffee I pressed on for Rosario.
I out ran the rain about an hour out of town and had clear sky all the way to Rosario where, just 30 km before I arrived, it turned into a blinding downpour, a condensed version of Noah's flood, Bolivia! And then, just as I am soaked to the skin everywhere, it stops and out comes the sun, and it looks nice as far as the eye can see. Then there is a sign that says Buenos Aires 302 km and I think; I can do that in my sleep. I press on.
Arrived Bs As late but whole to the warm reception of German y Paula (I gave them 90 minutes notice as I stopped for gas).
We went out for a great dinner with a bottle of malbec and visited for hours before they dropped me off at home...
So nice to be here!

I have one more summary post and will also add a link to more fotos.

Un abrazo desde Buenos Aires,
Nick
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Bien Jugoso, Tucuman, Argentina

Woke up this morning to the sound of - RAIN. Rolled over and wished it away. By 10 it was still coming down steady so I grabbed an argentine breakfast (cafe con leche, media lunas, and that little orange juice) double up my cloths (all dirty) and went to get Mr. Moto - big surprise there, the back tire is flat again (they don't have Slime here; add that to the list of things to import). Figured it was more of those thorns from hell (that would be Bolivia) so I just aired it up and rode.
After about two hours of fast wet driving it started feeling a little loose - tire down to 12 psi - aired up again and in just over three hours of solid rain and driving about 120 kph I pulled into Tucuman.
Set the GPS to the tourist info office (why don't we have these?) and 15 minutes later I described the nicest hotel I could remember from last time and she booked it immediately -122 pesos ($38). Used an old David Goldberg trick: when you know you will need something, tip big on first encounter with staff. In this case I wanted clean cloths, an appointment with a Chiropractor, my tire fixed and reservations for a good parilla -and I want them... now - mission accomplished.
I have a follow-up appointment tomorrow early and a referral for Cordoba; ya' 6 weeks in the saddle is not good on the already-tweaked spine.
Turned out I had a thorn and a nail... Its cool to find tire repair shops open at 7:30 (but never on sunday).
I think Tucuman is my second favorite city in Arg.
Tomorrow is a long haul to Cordoba to visit friends I met on my first visit - let's all pray for rain.
Nick
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Salta, Argentina 2

Limped around Salta on a quiet sunday afternoon - the city, like most here, is transformed into a 1950's quaintness on sunday with 90% of businesses closed.
Started my diatribe about my mis-adventures in Bolivia but couldn't finish - it was that horrible!
The catholics here have a cathedral that should make the pope green with envy - it really is magnificent! And the production value of the evening mass was Broadway, all the way (sound, lighting, ambiance - you name it - they nailed it, all the way down to the choir being perfectly but softly broadcast into the plaza); standing room only at 9 PM with many solo teenagers representing the standing at the back - they're obviously doing many things right.
I head out to Tucuman tomorrow - a short ride with a long one to Cordoba the following day.
Nick
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Salta Argentina

This great image is me changing/repairing the rear tire using a pen light last night - second tire that day - a Peruvian waiting for a 30 hour bus ride to Buenos Aires came up and took control. He asked everyone we could talk to about a Gomeria - when he got the same answer three time he grabbed his roll-on and we started walking (its not far, they lied). We finally found a tire repair shop at 9 PM and convinced the owners kid to get his tools and call a taxi - tire off, another taxi & back to the shop, fix tire, call taxi, reassemble everything with pen light, oh, and I need to find a bank... Considered leaving bike but it was a really bad location and we're almost home. The peruvian missed his bus... I made it worth his time with both a lot of gratitude and something he had very little of.
Slime went into the punctured front that morning - a thorn from hell.
The border crossing could have been worse - see the line of people on the right - it goes for about 200 meters and it isn't single file (estimated wait time, 4+ hours; the argentines don't seem real motivated to expedite bolivians coming in so there was only one guy prossing passports). I found a sympathetic new-guy in the customs office who walked my passport through so he could then process the moto paperwork.
In beautiful Salta now, but after the last four days in Bolivia, Bakersfield would look heavenly.
I am going to write a little summary tomorrow from a pc.
The trip south from the border was some of the most spectacular views yet - I was here a year ago during the dry season and its like a different planet. Even Jujuy, which I was disappointed in last trip, was a joy and the old single-lane (but impeccable maintained) road between Jujuy and Salta is one of the nicest drives anywhere.
While on the road a couple guys flagged me down in a tricked out toyota 4x4 (like $50k in extras and spare parts) they said they've only seen one other american and six canadians on bikes heading south - they have been driving from utah since november. Did I mention that I finally dropped below 9000 feet for the first time since heading toward Machu Picchu in mid-Peru.
Argentina has two flavors of gas here 95 and 97 octane - all I could get 90% of the time in bolivia was 84.
I'm staying at a nice old hotel on Salta's main plaza - its tourist central, but... I'm going to put up here for a few days.
Nick
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La Frontera, Argentina

Today was legend.
Adventure riding at its best with a few parts you only need to do once. 13 hours of riding later I'm starving, beat and checked into a dump - and happy for it.
More later.
Nick
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Long day plnned

Leaving Potosi - hope to make it to Jujuy or Salta, Argentina this afternoon.
Looks simple on the map but its about the max distance I've been able to do on these roads in a day and they will twisty and at altitude until I drop into the valley the last segment of the ride.
Nick
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Potosi, Bolivia

I'm in Potosi, got here following another cold wet ride at altitude. Service shakey so no images.
Next stop Jujuy, Argentina.
Nick
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Wandering La Paz

Yesterday morning I did the city tour followed by typical tourist sites (although I managed not to go into a single church).
Today I started off at the US embassy - where they efficiently processes my application for additional visa pages - I ran out so countries have been over stamping and they don't like that. Anyway, the embassy is this MASSIVE bomb-proof building in the middle of this walled compound - the double set of bomb-proof doors are so heavy I had to lean to open them (after going through a Bolivian National Police security checkpoint). I didn't know our national interests were so large in Bolivia. Right next door is the British Embassy in a building that looks like it would make a great pub - they had an "Open" sign at their entrance. See fotos.
Next I wandered up the mountain and spent the day in the old marketplace and still-active fruit/flower market. Later I found what the tourism industry calls the Whiches Market; I didn't know Bolivia was famous for its whiches but all the tourists (me included) were there and being given the chance to buy ground up things/stiff and desicated llama fetuses - I haven't a clue why but there they were.
I had some great street food - empanadas so spicy they would make a mexican blush - and yes, they had potatoes in them. I ended the day strolling the central promenade - I've done a lot of treking up and down the hills and thought that I was acclimated to the altitude but today I found myself panting and with little panic attacks several times. Tonight I'm going to try to find an Aussie bar called Boomerang.
Tomorrow morning I head out with destination Sucre.
Nick
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La Paz, Bolivia

Crossed into Bolivia on a quiet Sunday afternoon - except I gotta get out of these mountains - I'm parked under a gas station canopy because the weather went from sunny and hot to a massive thunder and lightning storm, with downpour, in less than 15 minutes.
Bolivia has done what so many other south american countries have done - reciprocity with toe US. I knew but forgot that I needed a visa. At the border I got a stiff scolding and an explanation of all the various (7) requirements - I had them all covered (including my UN health document with current Yellow Fever certificate - that's the one that brings a $mile to their face) After some boot licking and a donation a solution was found. I now have a 5 year, multi-entry visa and my moto is legal.
After an hour wait with no relief I raised my wind screen to the max and pressed on - after 15 minutes the rain turned into hail - glorious! The roads are great and whoever designed the bypass route deserves an award - but I didn't have any bongos so I had to talk my way through 2 toll plazas (well, 1 the other I just ran)
Hopped off where GPS indicated city center - headed a couple blocks into older neighborhood, saw a nice looking hotel with attached garage and pulled in.
I just consumed a Bolivian month's allocation of hot water - simple things.
Picked up a city map and heading out to have a look around.
I think this is home for a few days.

Nick
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On the road to Puno

I worked on the bike all morning. Ripped off all the tuperware and the tank, drained a gallon to clear any possible water, flow rate from pump was good. Cleaned the air filter (K&N), this was the probable culprit. In the valley it likely would have been fine but running at 100+ kph at 14,000 feet eats alot more air... Also changed the oil and cleaned everything I could - I oil the chain daily so it creates alot of nastyness which I normally ignore. Haven´t cleaned the exterior since I left California - thought was that it would attract less attention;futile anyway so it will pull into Buenos Aires looking its age. No fotos from the shop fun because I was working in a little garage in old Cusco and by the time I though of taking a picture I was filthy as were the wrenches working there. Ran it on a quick high RPM test and it feels normal.

I crossed my fingers and checked out of Cuzco. I am heading toward Puno on another high altitude twisty road through the Andies. Took this foto at about 4200 meters - the scenery is fantastic.

Because I got a late start I pulled into a little town (Santa Rosa) at about 5 pm - the next place was just too chancy and dark clouds were forming. I´ll be in Puno tomorrow morning, weather permitting, and besides, I´m not in the high-miles mode.

I am the only guest at the only hostel in town - no hot water or heat but I´m getting used to it. Rate is 8 soles or about U$S 2.60.

A good week!

Machu Picchu

I look worked because I am - I just returned from climbing to the peak above the ruins. DO IT!
I've sent email that has been posted to moto forums and received several helpful replies - thanks to all. Tomorrow I do the shotgun approach and pull the top off the bike and clean/check/drain everything I can touch.
Nick
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Inca Trail

Toured sites in the various valleys surrounding Cuzco. Spectacular sights and history. There's a good reason people from around the world come here. Tomorrow Machu Picchu.
Having problem with moto that I hope is easily fixed.
Nick
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Cuzco, Peru

Woke up early yesterday to the sounds of straining diesel engines but no rain and feeling like I had been embalmed with kerosene and then beaten with rubber hoses that had been filled with sand.
Couldn't bear the thought of food so I crammed into 5 layers of cloths, most dry, and headed out.
A glorious drive over good roads and great weather. Made it to Cuzco by 1:30, checked into a hotel and immediately fell asleep - didn't get up until this morning at 6 AM. Pretty sure I had a mild case of hypothermia after driving wet for hours at freezing temperatures - couldn't get warm until today. Finally saw llamas wandering the mountains.
Today I am taking the tour of the surrounding cities and countryside - tomorrow I go to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is closed for the month of february so I take the train (had wanted to hike it)
Attaching a few prior fotos and one of today hiking on the Incan Trail.
Nick
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Ignorance is Miserable! Chaljuanca, Los Andes, between Nazca and Cuzcu

Flew over the lines - a little underwriting was the consensus the night before talking to those who had done flight and I agree. Need to see the images I shot in full size. The lines are great, the flight was a tediously staged event that was 90 minutes late - but you have to do it and they know it all to well.
Left the hot desert floor and immediately began climbing - had to add a layer of cloths at 46 km and 20 minutes later I added everything I had. Then it started raining and the secondary road turned into a bumpy mud hole, and then it got worse - single track at about 15 mph for 45 minutes as I passed through the clouds - then it fools you an it gets nice for awhile... Made good time but cold at 4000 meters (13000 ft) and then it starts snowing - and I forgot my snow tires and arctic cloths for my south-america-in-the-summer trip - silly me!
Too late to turn around so I press on - for hours - at 4550 meters (15,000 ft). Incredibly, the bike has great power and handling up here.
Were I to do it again I would park the moto and fly over as an excursion.
I stopped at a little village to warm up and take a foto and some guy wanders up, looks me and the bike over, and says "tres huevos" then wanders off.
I pressed on knowing I would make civilization before dark - ya right, but it depends on the definition of civilization. I never thought I'd be really happy to drop down to 3000 M altitude. It rained the entire time, it's raining now, it will rain tomorrow. Did I mention that the hotel has hot water but no heat?
I will put on everything I own that is dry and look for some better rain gear in the next town. I love my sleeping bag for times like this (there have been a few). Tried to give my tent away several times to backpackers - not needed - so I'll lug that anchor to argentina.
Sure seems like a xanax moment to me.
No data service so the pretty plane and blowing snow fotos will have to wait.
Nick
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Nazca, Peru

A short ride today with a rest stop and visit to Nazca. Have 7 AM flight tomorrow to overfly the Lines of Nazca (googe image - its worth it).
An amazing and rugged place. Staying in great hotel (Hotel Alegria for you future travelers) for cheap.
Met some fun Tazmanians (a first) for lunch at a Parrilla (food other than fried chicken and french fries! And so good I took a picture!)
No data service so no image today.
Next I head into the mountains towards Cuzco and Machu Picchu.

Nick
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Police Extorsion, Lima Peru

Driving south along the coast there is a great section of highway similar to I-5 in California; as I crested a hill there is an officer with a wand pulling over cars (but only nice cars, and me). Once stopped he systematically directs you to his partner, the grand pubah who sits on his truck and accuses you of something. In my case it was illegal passing, and then threatened to keep my documents and mail them to my embassy when I paid my fine. A solution was found when he suggested I could pay the fine directly. The foto is of the family who tried to help and later pulled over a couple miles later to make sure I was OK. Thanks! Turned out I didn't negotiated enough as I paid several times what they did for the same "crime".
Made it through Lima and then they closed the highway (?) so I pulled over at the first sign that said playa and found a little hotel on the beach.
Next stop Pisco where I plan to look around and spend a day.

Nick
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Almost forgot - what some people call pets other people call lunch

Returned to guest house between sites. The innkeeper was making lunch and when I expressed a little interest in the menu she invited me to join them. Mmmm, fried Guinea Pig, tastes like chicken, sort of...
Nick
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The ruins at Chan Chan and Sol y Luna

Did the cultural thing today. Chan Chan is a World Heritage Site but found the Temple of the Moon more captivating. It is older but better preserved as they built 5 subsequent temples, one over the other, and when excavated, you are able to see actual art and architecture dating from the time of Christ. Hired private guides for both sites who significantly contributing to making sites interesting.
Spent an hour talking with some Italians over breakfast who were in southern Peru last week - got some great tips.
The adobe structures in foto background are part of an old city along a fertile river region just inland from Trujillo.
Tomorrow I travel.
Nick
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Trujillo, Peru

Crossed into Peru yesterday. Made really good time and Peru was the easiest/friendliest/freest border crossing yet. Since Peru is so large I picked up a $100 worth of bongos at the border - normally I just go to an ATM - 2/3 of them turned out to be counterfeit that the first gas station attendant spotted; asi la vida.
Spent last night in a sleepy little coastal village at a Sheraton, not The Sheraton, no hot water was my first clue. Why this place? Simple it is the only lodging in town. The owner was great and invited me to dine with his family - later I cruised bike into town and the taxi boys (literally, this country is full of 3-wheeled mopeds called mototaxis) had a million questions, see foto.
Cruised south today making great time. The scenery goes from tropical jungle to arid ranges in about 2 hours then becomes rocky barren desert in just a few more. Unfortunately, when they don't burn their garbage they just take it to the desert and dump it - then the strong winds blow it forever - shredded black plastic bags clinging to everything that can eek out an existence is disheartening.
Pushed to get to this place with plenty of light - found a nice pseudo-hostel; the owner, an expat brit and his Peruvian wife, give archaeological tours of 8,000 year old sites surrounding the city - that's the plan for tomorrow (and I don't have any clean cloths so a layover is necessary).
Got the fotos of volcano hike but can't open them on phone - they'll keep.
Made it through a bunch of check-points today - I have a headlight modulator that flashes the lights from 30% to100% power every second - all the cops here think I know them and am flashing to get their attention - they hesitantly wave - I wave back and they continue the process by waving me through - I keep it on all the time - I know it gets attention on the highway, the entire trip everyone strobe flashes me - they see me coming, a good thing.
Peruvian bus drivers don't like to be passed - had them try to kill me on two occasions until I figured this out - as passing they intentionally pull into the passing lane cutting off advance and try to force you off the road at speed - accelerate hard is the rule. Then they only honk and wave their hand at you to try to distract you - almost as charming as Honduras throwing glass bottles at me from the back of trucks.
Doing some homework studying southern Peru where I want to spend a few days in the mountains.
Nick
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Guayaquil, Equador

Got moto out of airport, same shit only they think they're more important - three inspections, four hours and 70 dollars later I hit the road - and nasty weather at 3200 M. Many trucks going 25 MPH all day - so dangerous I wanted off but there aren't any alternatives.
They should rename the center of this place DOLE, they seem to own everything.
I drove for an hour looking for a decent hotel - couldn't find one - the first place I pulled into charged by the hour and had a decidedly red neon with hearts theme - so I'm staying in a dump with no hot water and a gecko crawling around on the ceiling. My face is black from all the diesel exhaust and dust.
Spectacular scenes - A travel day.
Nick
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Volcano Cotopaxi and Quito

Went on the best excursion today. Got up at dark and joined a small group at a coffee shop then boarded a van for the trip out of the city - switched to a 4X4 loaded with mountain bikes on the roof an hour later and started up. At 11:30 we got to 4,400 meters and started climbing. An hour +/- later we were at 4,800 meters and reached a tiny lodge for a great lunch. Then we pressed on and 90 minutes later were at 5,000 meters (16,404 ft). An hour + to only go 200 meters you ask? In gravel - 7 inches up, slide three inches back, take a breath, repeat for 35 paced, stop and rest. We finally reached the ice cap, Try it!
When we got down to the 4X4 later that afternoon we raced mountain bikes down hill through huge switch-backs to a lagoon at 3,500 meters.
Unfortunately camera battery was dead and phone in hotel so I'm hoping a canadian women who took a few shots for me will forward them.
If the customs office opens tomorrow I'll probably be heading toward the coast.
Exhausting but a Great Day!
Nick
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Quito and surroundings

Read an nice article in the paper about a community about 3 hours south so I took a bus to check it out - the author must work for the tourism bureau.
I'm off early tomorrow to hike and mountain bike volcano Cotopaxi.
The bike? They lied, perhaps wednesday.
Seems the custom service is closed with the rest of the city until then. Buenos Aires is more active on Christmas day than Quito for the past several - they keep reminding me that it's Carnival - I remind them that Rio doesn't become a morgue...
Nick
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Quito Viejo, Alive With Locals

I've been a tourist in Quito.
Saturday is slow and the city shuts down on sunday with primarily locals populating the old city where every few blocks there is a church, cathedral, basilica (but no synagogues?) - the new city, where I am staying, is a ghost town but for tourists looking for something to shop.
There are police (federal, municipal, turistica) everywhere but they are seemingly the most docile and amiable group that I've ever come across - likely a reflection of the society.
This is a city of active churches, many many well used churches.
It was nice to have a lazy day and just wander the city doing nothing.
I'm attaching a foto of the central bank; their currency (like Panama and El Salvador) is the US dollar. I don't know if that is good or bad given our 50% slide against the euro - but it could be worse.
Quito in general, but particularly food, is very inexpensive.
Wandering up and down the old stone streets at altitude is awakening muscles. Finally found some nightlife,,, gotta go.

Nick
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Quito, Equador & Mr. Moto becomes cargo

"Problemo Grande" was the phrase of the day - until I got to Quito!

They have art everywhere and if first impressions matter (they do) then I'm going to like this place!

In Panama: The moto could NOT be shipped today and definitely not to Quito - there was no warehousing available - planes yes, a place to put it, NO!
Calls were made, hands were wrung, then they found a plane leaving Bogota to Quito tonight so they would accept it for pick up in Quito on Monday - no storage needed - problem solved...
Got to the other side of the airport and it struck everyone as CRAZY that I should show up at an airport and want to buy a ticket to get on one of those things that fly - seriously!
It took 90 minutes and every supervisor available, plus one from upstairs, to buy a ticket. At 11:47 they gave me a ticket for the 11:50 flight with this advise "no stop to shop, ju mus urry"
Then passport control needed a supervisor because my passport was stamped at the frontera/border with vehicle information and this was very confusing. Oh, and security needed to look at my small carry on, twice.
Asi la Vida - Any other mind set isn't helpful or rewarding.

I'm in Quito now and I've just found a great little hotel and cleared the mental slate.
Dot, dot, smile!

Nick
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Ciudad de Panama

Rolled into Panama City as my trip odometer rolled past 7800 km (5000 miles). Snaked into the old city (just because) and saw a few sights, got hung up in traffic (and confused) until I found a group of motorcycle cops doing the Dunkin Donuts thing at a gas station - asked for help - and after the obligatory show them the bike routine, I got a lane-splitting motorcycle escort through town to the autopista on-ramp. They were testing me because they were cutting through traffic on little dirt bikes at speed.
Found my way to the cargo terminal at the airport and learned that Mr. Moto (a proper noun) can be on a plane to Bogota Colombia tomorrow AM and available to pick up on Monday morning - or - ship it Monday and pick it up on Thursday in Quito. Not bad as I could fly ahead and be a tourist for a few days while it catches up to me - if I can leave it tomorrow for monday's flight the next entry you read will be from Ecuador.
Found a small repair shop with a great bunch of guys. Funny that they had the tires I needed (and no other tires), another story. I'm now running a set of Perelli Scorpions in AlMoSt the right size for a good deal price! While they were changing the rubber I tightened everything I could, fixed a bent luggage attachment and changed the oil. Mr. Moto is happy.
If I don't leave tomorrow I've been invited to a motorcycle group party in the mountains on Saturday afternoon/evening - its carnival here with much of the country shut down this weekend so I'm heading into al centro to see what's shakin'.
Nick
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Santago, Veraguas, Panama (the middle)

Got up at dawn and decided really cold hands were better than warm road kill so I headed out over the other 12,000 ft pass in central america before the big rigs started rolling - even they don't drive at night. Got over the pass and into the valleys for breakfast. Decided I was making good time so pressed on.
Hit the Panama border a little after noon and was relieved to find that it was the easiest yet. 90 minutes to get out of one and into the other.
The scenery changes bit it is just as spectacular as Costa Rica.
Tried to pay my ticket twice but banana republic politics proved the stronger force - one bank just said no because I must wait at least 5 days and the other said I didn't come with three copies and wouldn't allow me to pay - so what? now I'm a fugitive over a $10 speeding ticket and can never return! EVER!
Tried to make it to the coast this evening but the sun started down... I will likely speed into the capital tomorrow AM to get details about shipping Mr. Moto. If they can get it out over the weekend then good - but I suspect Monday so I'll look for tires and likely run over to Mar Caribe for the weekend.
Got stopped at checkpoints twice - there are two types:
Come to stop, look confused, they ask where you from?, where you going?, make some noises to each other then finally say, "alone?", I say yes, they look astonished and make comments about large breakfast food items. Then they want to chat and look at the bike - if you take the helmet off this goes on too long - turn the motor off, don't take the helmet/glasses off.
The other is the "show me your papers" because I'm very important and have serious questions interrogation routine - here I just continue with step one - look confused and repeat - no intendee,,, excuse me, no habla spanish... It only takes about 45 seconds of moron-speak until they wave me through in disgust. Each results in the some outcome.
Saw a bunch of huge lizards sunning themselves on the early-morning road (but not a lot of splatter spots so they must sense the danger danger - how would Darwin explain that...?)
A Beautiful Day,
Nick
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