Big Trees in Northern California

Cruised south along the coast to Avenue of the Giants; Amazing! Did twistys 'till I was tired of them and headed inland to see family. More later.
Nick
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New Toy, Strom II

On Tuesday I bid on and won an auction for a 2006 V-Strom. Almost identical to Mr. Moto - the seller (Dave) had even outfitted it with most of the stuff I had/wanted; about $2k in add-ons.
I got up at 4:30 this morning and boarded the 6 AM flight SBA to Medford Oregon where the Dave met me at the airport. A test drive and 90 minutes later I was making tracks for the coast.
The guy suggested that route 299 was one of the best motorcycle roads in california and I have to agree. The weather is glorious right now - a wonderful warm spell that should last through the weekend.
I pulled over when I hit the coast; going to spend the night in Arcada. Tomorrow I'm going to do a slow scenic trip down the coast through Fort Bragg and the Great Redwoods.
A great day!

Nick
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4 Stars in Montevideo

I completed my after-burner run south; arrived MVD just after sunset.
Yesterday I asked a local friend with good taste(y) to send me a couple links for a nice hotel in the city- but not downtown. He sent me a couple links, both to the same hotel... Ask and ye shall receive. Anyway, I roll into town looking like death on a cracker and I'm cruising the malicon when I see a Grand hotel - so I whip it into their entrance thinking to get directions... Not necessary, this is the place; except they have rates published at reception and I'm not paying them. I ask chico con leche at reception to make some call for me because I'm doing moto diaries and just don't need 4 stars. He does, everyplace close is sold out so he cuts the price by 50% and I move in.

Yesterday I stayed in a DUMP, your basic negative one star hotel. I knew I was in trouble when I could see the bus station from my window.
The first week of riding is harder than 4 hours a day in the gym! Today was no exception; 10 hours in the saddle and I'm checking out the mini-bar. Probably a personal record for the most kilometers covered in a single day (down here that earns you a premium because they seem to be tougher). Nevermind that I also had an international border and the two respective (albiet easy) tax offices.
Tomorrow I will likely finish this segment and cross the river heading south.

Its tomorrow - and I'm in Colonia with a ticket on the fast barge accross the pond.
Nick
via BlackBerry

South

Montevideo or bust.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Florianopolis to Porto Alegre

Got up early and checked out the mainland part of the city - blah - then I did a drive around the island: nice.
The cold front was settled in with rain so I headed back south through the front and made good weather about 4PM. Still had hours more of constant construction and detours accompanied by several thousand mega trucks - pleasure touring at its finest. Made Port Happy about 8 PM and didn't feel like hotel shopping so I checked into a dive - and what a dive.
Tomorrow looks bleak. I don't really want to push it to make Montevideo (725 km plus an international border and two aduanas) and none of the places in between are up for any awards. Whoa is me.

Nick
via BlackBerry

Canalas, Guatamala Revisited, and Florinapolis...

Today started out nice - drove around the mountain resorts, took the worlds slowest ski lift to no-where and saw a dribblong water fall and then I got stupid!
I'm in Florinapolis now - what a drive... Seven hours of hell accompanied by a cold front and pouring rain forever. It felt like Guatamala all overt again. All my moto-muscles are crying.
The Brazilians are doing the largest public works road project in the history of... Something. I don't want to talk about it now.
Arrived Florinapolis expecting ... I don't know - something nice. Yikes! I won't say more now - so I have a chance to see it better tomorrow.
Gotta go,
Nick
via BlackBerry

New Noises - Portuguese

I'm up in the mountains at Gramado - beautiful!
Just when I thought I was getting comfortable with the background language they went and changed it to this Dutch/Vietnam sounding noise. Actually its a very pretty language; deceptively similar to spanish but don't get your hopes up.
There are lots of people who look like me here.
Brazil is expensive (well, food and gas is anyway)
More later
Nick
via BlackBerry

Brazil

I wrote a long, witty blog entry - and then accidently deleted it, *±#¤!
The drive up the coast of Uruguay was beautiful and uneventful - got pseudo lost as the map indicated that the bridge below could be used...
Out in the middle of nowhere was a United Nations Air base and the highway was designated as an emergency landing strip - they expanded it to HUGE to accomodate cargo planes and it was fully painted as a runway. Uruguay, like Argentina features mainly meals based on beef so a good salad seems newsworthy.
Heading North for a change.

Nick

via BlackBerry

Oh, Dark Thirty and I'm On The Road Again!

The city was getting monotonous and I needed to get Mr. Moto's documents renewed so I'm off - this time on a loop north through Uruguay and into Brazil. I hope to visit the mountains west of Porto Alegre (Gramando) and just generally ride the coastal road via Florianopolis and as far north as, but not planning on entering, Rio.
It's nice to be on the road again!
Nick
via BlackBerry

Obelisco

A day in Buenos Aires...

Walter and I out for a ride on a beautiful sunday afternoon.

Nick
via BlackBerry

Trip Summary and Accident Report Ocuri, Bolivia to Buenos Aires, Argentina

Tuesday morning, while driving La Paz to Potosi Bolivia I had an unfortunate accident.

While driving through town on a relatively nice road I approached an intersection, like so many millions here it is crowded and unmetered... There is a minivan filled with about 16 passengers (normal here, they pay 1 Boliviano (12 cents) to go where ever) waiting to make a u-turn. I make eye contact with the driver - I know he sees me - there is a taxi parked in the right lane just past the intersection. Just as I approach the rear of the taxi the mini-van accelerates hard right into my left side pile driving me broadside into the driver's door of the parked taxi. I become moto-sandwich and catch the mini-van's bumper in the left foot and lower leg. My luggage and crash bars absorb all the impact with the taxi and beat the hell out of it so my right leg is completely protected. Momentum carries the moto forward a few feet where gravity takes over and I come to an abrupt and complete horizontal stop. My sternum takes the forward velocity and I've got bruising on my lower arms but the crash bars and hand protectors completely envelop the front of the bike and I'm wearing gear so have no road rash or cuts. My helmet takes a hard rap. I want to murder the idiot driver in the mini-van but logic prevails and the police are called... Meanwhile, I know my left leg is hurt pretty bad but I feel confident nothing is broken.

The Law shows up and does a pretty good job of getting the facts and then throws my bags in their van and ask me, taxi, and idiot to follow to the police station. Off we go.

There they report findings to a guy who seems to occupy the position of commissioner or magistrate. They re-enact the accident using toy cars and he determines that mini-van is responsible. Now comes some assessment of how to handle damages... This is where we loose touch with reality.

I am asked to prepare a list of damages with value. I do this; about 1,250 dollars in direct costs plus labor. They go into shock. A new tribunal is called...
Below the sign that tells us that corruption will not be tolerated is a doorway; the commissioner takes taxi driver and mini-van driver into this room - I am prohibited from entering and they really don't like it when I try to take a foto. Five minutes later everyone comes out smiling and I know the game is over. It seems that now I have been assigned some small responsibility for the accident and I am reminded that I must respect the magistrate.
I am told to accompany the other two for an assessment of the value of the damages. We drive to the equivalent of a wrecking yard and there a demented and toothless old man looks at the bike and states that he can have it looking like new for about 88 bolivianos - i protest his assessment to no avail...
No statement is prepared - they just accept his gummed utterance and its back to the cop shop.

Back at the police station Mr. Commissioner makes his decision: I am entitled to 88 bolivianos (about 12 dollars). I ask about the crack to my helmet - he looks at the value ($360) claims that this can not be correct, that most of the value must be due to its artistic value, and tells me that ARTE does not have value. I ask about the damaged luggage - same story - this must be art and besides, its not available here. When asked about the lights and other parts that were ripped off when it hit the ground he states that this model of moto is not available in Bolivia and therefore they can not be responsible. This becomes the new theme of the day and then he encourages me to go hire a lawyer.
At this point I know its time to leave but make one last attempt to talk to the man who is the obvious over-boss. He just smiles, raises his hands, rolls his eyes, and goes outside to admire the bike but will not comment. When I follow him out and ask him about justice he does the same shrug and goes back inside... I ask for my documents back, they try to insist I accept 88 bongos - I smile and think about revenge. I limp off to try to put the bike back together as well as I can and get the hell out of town before more daylight is wasted... In case I have problems I really want to try for a larger town before dark and my foot is killing me.
I think about revenge some more but know that in two days I will be in Argentina and Mr. Mini-Van will still be crammed into his mini-van in Ocuri, Bolivia... and six months later I might be in New York or Santa Barbara but mini-van will still be in Bolivia. I decide to let karma work it out and hope everything hangs on until I can make the next town. A lot of luggage brackets were tweaked and my german-made top box was literally ripped off the bike and cracked.

I made it to Potosi as dark. hits and roll into the nicest hotel I can find.

I put in for the night and the innkeepers can see I'm in a bad way so he assigns his 12 year-old kid (Carlos) to give me a hand. We get my luggage in the room and the bike parked/garaged and I send him on his way to try to find me some drugs. He came back 30 minutes later with water, aspirin and a package of oreos. I take a hot shower, lots of aspirin and a sleeping pill and lay down to recover.

The next morning before school Carlos shows up with a package of Tylenol and I give him money for something stronger. I try to get dressed but my foot is huge and I can't walk. I hobble down the hall and convince the maid to make me some breakfast and go back to bed. Carlos shows up some time later with more water and some Rx strength Aleve (600 mg pills). I risk stomach/liver cancer and being bored to death watching reruns of CSI Miami all day.

The next day walking is still a significant challenge but I'm not going to spend another day in Bolivia so Carlos helps me load up the bike. I put my foot in two socks, a garbage bag, another sock to hold it all together and a tennis shoe without laces. Carlos finds me a piece of string to tie to the shifter so I don't have to use my foot (doesn't work) and I'm off to the border... Or so I think.

The map indicates that there is one unpaved road and one paved road south to the Argentine border. About 30 minutes south of town I hit a fork and follow the theoretical route with pavement - that quickly runs out. I endure this for 30 more minutes thinking its just construction - then turn back and try the other road... Same story: 30 minutes of dirt, turn back to talk to the locals.

A truck driver informs me that they're both long and dirt all the way to the frontera and says he prefers my first route. 10 minutes later a cop tells me the same thing so I top off with gas, buy some extra water just in case and head out...

If you were able to look at the properties page of the images file (above) of the dry road and the wet road you would see that 14 minutes separate the two. One minute it is dry - the next is a river flowing where the road was...

By now it is mid-day and I'm still confident I can make Argentina by nightfall; my foot is killing me.
A couple hours later I roll into a little town as it starts to sprinkle; its not bad so I press on. 15 minutes later it becomes Noah's revenge and I'm forced to high tail it back to town where I wait it out under the protection of a dead gas station overhang.
As the water tapers off I head south again. About 10 km south of town I come to a low point in the road that suddenly becomes a flash-flood plane and the water is raging out of the mountains to fill the low spot - I literally could not turn around fast enough to beat the river that was chasing me. Those are little current eddys.
The surrounding countryside is filled with these psuedo-trees. They are really thorn bushes that would make an early christian shudder and the flash-flood is washing tons of these discarded thorn bush limbs my way. I run over one, or some, and am now hemorrhage air. When I get back into town the guy that runs the tire repair shop just gives me the doe-in-the-headlights look so I pop the valve stem and dump a bottle of slime in the front time. I aired up the rear, waited for the flood to subside and headed out yet again.

Now there is mud deeper than the rim and thorn limbs interwoven everywhere but I have no choice and ride hard south. I stop several times to add air to the rear but the front is holding and self healing.

The conditions change fast and it becomes high altitude desert again within an hour so I race as fast as possible. Now the big rigs and monster busses seem to have hit a schedule and every 30 minutes I face a caravan of these monsters spewing dust and rocks at 100 miles an hour. After hours of running hard I'm getting nervous - the GPS says I'm approaching a town, and it's right, sort of.
I had hoped that Iwould encounter pavement and the ability to get repairs as needed and then run for the border - NOT.
Another 180 km of dirt rock and mud roads to go and the sun is starting to set. I press on and just when I think I'm almost there I hit a pretty substantial river without a bridge. I wait for a semi-truck to point the way and watch carefully as he slowly crosses; I make to duplicate his route. About 3/4 of the way across I hit a slick spot, slide sideways and bury the bike up to my thighs in water. I immediately kill the engine and fight to keep it upright in the current. There are literally three men and a boy standing by the side of the river snickering at me... I give them the international symbol to help and they eventually wade in and help me push it to the shore. Why there are three men and a boy watching the river in the middle of nowhere is beyond me but I'm happy they were there.
My garbage bag is now full of muddy water, the pain meds are worn off, it's getting cold and dark and I'm feeling a little defeated. Problem is, as before, I've got no options and fortunately she starts right up and I race south. At this point I know the border is near and I roll in just as night is falling only to find a line from hell...
I already posted about the Argentine governments position of expediting Bolivians into their country on a friday night; fortunately I found a guy in the tax office who was sympathetic and helped me get my passport stamped and expedited the customs process - it still took two hours and when I got done I didn't think to check the bike which was parked under lights and the shelter of the border so I just hopped on and drove off. The acceleration and a slight turn was enough to separate the rear wheel from the rim and thus prevent me the possibility of simply airing it up.
By now I'm pretty bummed, hurt, it's dark, I've left the sanctuary of the border but not entered town and lets not forget the altitude is still about 3,600 meters - cold, and I'm cranky; not a good combination.
Enter the wonderfultake-charge Peruvian I wrote about before; he saved me because I was ready to either commit murder or suicide.
I think I'll just copy notes from before to here.
Now you have a better idea of why I raced from central Bolivia to Buenos Aires as fast as I could.
Ya' I spent a little nice time in Salta but that was mainly to try to recover and get my bearings.
I enjoyed the time spent with friend in Cordoba but I was still in significant pain and not looking forward to spending a week of lazy driving to the capital. And lets not forget the rain; EVERY DAY, THE RAIN.
The bike is going to stay here so I figure I can always do weekend trips from Buenos Aires to the countryside.
My first day in Buenos Aires was with a friend accompanying me to a private hospital where they took 4 x-rays ($28), and a trauma doctor proclaimed me a lucky idiot while repeatedly chastizing me for not getting treatment earlier, and gave me meds for the pain and the infection that was developing.
It's now pushing two weeks since the accident and the ankle and foot are still super-sized. I'm wearing a leg brace and have spent the majority of my time forced to lay down with my foot elevated and on ice.
I had a follow-up appointment with a spedialized trauma surgeon on Saturday ($50) who pronounced everything healing well and told me to expect the swelling to last another week.
I'm still very happy to be here - it is not likely that I will be using my multi-entry visa for Bolivia any time soon.

Nick

PS. It's raining as I type this.

PS. It' Raining

Nick
via BlackBerry

Buenos Aires

Drove Tucuman - Cordoba and spent a very nice evening with Agustin, Lucia and the twins; Argentine parilla until the early hours of the morning followed by too much fernet. The following day they had work so we met for lunch (just as I was packing it started raining). After a casual coffee I pressed on for Rosario.
I out ran the rain about an hour out of town and had clear sky all the way to Rosario where, just 30 km before I arrived, it turned into a blinding downpour, a condensed version of Noah's flood, Bolivia! And then, just as I am soaked to the skin everywhere, it stops and out comes the sun, and it looks nice as far as the eye can see. Then there is a sign that says Buenos Aires 302 km and I think; I can do that in my sleep. I press on.
Arrived Bs As late but whole to the warm reception of German y Paula (I gave them 90 minutes notice as I stopped for gas).
We went out for a great dinner with a bottle of malbec and visited for hours before they dropped me off at home...
So nice to be here!

I have one more summary post and will also add a link to more fotos.

Un abrazo desde Buenos Aires,
Nick
via BlackBerry

Bien Jugoso, Tucuman, Argentina

Woke up this morning to the sound of - RAIN. Rolled over and wished it away. By 10 it was still coming down steady so I grabbed an argentine breakfast (cafe con leche, media lunas, and that little orange juice) double up my cloths (all dirty) and went to get Mr. Moto - big surprise there, the back tire is flat again (they don't have Slime here; add that to the list of things to import). Figured it was more of those thorns from hell (that would be Bolivia) so I just aired it up and rode.
After about two hours of fast wet driving it started feeling a little loose - tire down to 12 psi - aired up again and in just over three hours of solid rain and driving about 120 kph I pulled into Tucuman.
Set the GPS to the tourist info office (why don't we have these?) and 15 minutes later I described the nicest hotel I could remember from last time and she booked it immediately -122 pesos ($38). Used an old David Goldberg trick: when you know you will need something, tip big on first encounter with staff. In this case I wanted clean cloths, an appointment with a Chiropractor, my tire fixed and reservations for a good parilla -and I want them... now - mission accomplished.
I have a follow-up appointment tomorrow early and a referral for Cordoba; ya' 6 weeks in the saddle is not good on the already-tweaked spine.
Turned out I had a thorn and a nail... Its cool to find tire repair shops open at 7:30 (but never on sunday).
I think Tucuman is my second favorite city in Arg.
Tomorrow is a long haul to Cordoba to visit friends I met on my first visit - let's all pray for rain.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Salta, Argentina 2

Limped around Salta on a quiet sunday afternoon - the city, like most here, is transformed into a 1950's quaintness on sunday with 90% of businesses closed.
Started my diatribe about my mis-adventures in Bolivia but couldn't finish - it was that horrible!
The catholics here have a cathedral that should make the pope green with envy - it really is magnificent! And the production value of the evening mass was Broadway, all the way (sound, lighting, ambiance - you name it - they nailed it, all the way down to the choir being perfectly but softly broadcast into the plaza); standing room only at 9 PM with many solo teenagers representing the standing at the back - they're obviously doing many things right.
I head out to Tucuman tomorrow - a short ride with a long one to Cordoba the following day.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Salta Argentina

This great image is me changing/repairing the rear tire using a pen light last night - second tire that day - a Peruvian waiting for a 30 hour bus ride to Buenos Aires came up and took control. He asked everyone we could talk to about a Gomeria - when he got the same answer three time he grabbed his roll-on and we started walking (its not far, they lied). We finally found a tire repair shop at 9 PM and convinced the owners kid to get his tools and call a taxi - tire off, another taxi & back to the shop, fix tire, call taxi, reassemble everything with pen light, oh, and I need to find a bank... Considered leaving bike but it was a really bad location and we're almost home. The peruvian missed his bus... I made it worth his time with both a lot of gratitude and something he had very little of.
Slime went into the punctured front that morning - a thorn from hell.
The border crossing could have been worse - see the line of people on the right - it goes for about 200 meters and it isn't single file (estimated wait time, 4+ hours; the argentines don't seem real motivated to expedite bolivians coming in so there was only one guy prossing passports). I found a sympathetic new-guy in the customs office who walked my passport through so he could then process the moto paperwork.
In beautiful Salta now, but after the last four days in Bolivia, Bakersfield would look heavenly.
I am going to write a little summary tomorrow from a pc.
The trip south from the border was some of the most spectacular views yet - I was here a year ago during the dry season and its like a different planet. Even Jujuy, which I was disappointed in last trip, was a joy and the old single-lane (but impeccable maintained) road between Jujuy and Salta is one of the nicest drives anywhere.
While on the road a couple guys flagged me down in a tricked out toyota 4x4 (like $50k in extras and spare parts) they said they've only seen one other american and six canadians on bikes heading south - they have been driving from utah since november. Did I mention that I finally dropped below 9000 feet for the first time since heading toward Machu Picchu in mid-Peru.
Argentina has two flavors of gas here 95 and 97 octane - all I could get 90% of the time in bolivia was 84.
I'm staying at a nice old hotel on Salta's main plaza - its tourist central, but... I'm going to put up here for a few days.
Nick
via BlackBerry

La Frontera, Argentina

Today was legend.
Adventure riding at its best with a few parts you only need to do once. 13 hours of riding later I'm starving, beat and checked into a dump - and happy for it.
More later.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Long day plnned

Leaving Potosi - hope to make it to Jujuy or Salta, Argentina this afternoon.
Looks simple on the map but its about the max distance I've been able to do on these roads in a day and they will twisty and at altitude until I drop into the valley the last segment of the ride.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Potosi, Bolivia

I'm in Potosi, got here following another cold wet ride at altitude. Service shakey so no images.
Next stop Jujuy, Argentina.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Wandering La Paz

Yesterday morning I did the city tour followed by typical tourist sites (although I managed not to go into a single church).
Today I started off at the US embassy - where they efficiently processes my application for additional visa pages - I ran out so countries have been over stamping and they don't like that. Anyway, the embassy is this MASSIVE bomb-proof building in the middle of this walled compound - the double set of bomb-proof doors are so heavy I had to lean to open them (after going through a Bolivian National Police security checkpoint). I didn't know our national interests were so large in Bolivia. Right next door is the British Embassy in a building that looks like it would make a great pub - they had an "Open" sign at their entrance. See fotos.
Next I wandered up the mountain and spent the day in the old marketplace and still-active fruit/flower market. Later I found what the tourism industry calls the Whiches Market; I didn't know Bolivia was famous for its whiches but all the tourists (me included) were there and being given the chance to buy ground up things/stiff and desicated llama fetuses - I haven't a clue why but there they were.
I had some great street food - empanadas so spicy they would make a mexican blush - and yes, they had potatoes in them. I ended the day strolling the central promenade - I've done a lot of treking up and down the hills and thought that I was acclimated to the altitude but today I found myself panting and with little panic attacks several times. Tonight I'm going to try to find an Aussie bar called Boomerang.
Tomorrow morning I head out with destination Sucre.
Nick
via BlackBerry

La Paz, Bolivia

Crossed into Bolivia on a quiet Sunday afternoon - except I gotta get out of these mountains - I'm parked under a gas station canopy because the weather went from sunny and hot to a massive thunder and lightning storm, with downpour, in less than 15 minutes.
Bolivia has done what so many other south american countries have done - reciprocity with toe US. I knew but forgot that I needed a visa. At the border I got a stiff scolding and an explanation of all the various (7) requirements - I had them all covered (including my UN health document with current Yellow Fever certificate - that's the one that brings a $mile to their face) After some boot licking and a donation a solution was found. I now have a 5 year, multi-entry visa and my moto is legal.
After an hour wait with no relief I raised my wind screen to the max and pressed on - after 15 minutes the rain turned into hail - glorious! The roads are great and whoever designed the bypass route deserves an award - but I didn't have any bongos so I had to talk my way through 2 toll plazas (well, 1 the other I just ran)
Hopped off where GPS indicated city center - headed a couple blocks into older neighborhood, saw a nice looking hotel with attached garage and pulled in.
I just consumed a Bolivian month's allocation of hot water - simple things.
Picked up a city map and heading out to have a look around.
I think this is home for a few days.

Nick
via BlackBerry

On the road to Puno

I worked on the bike all morning. Ripped off all the tuperware and the tank, drained a gallon to clear any possible water, flow rate from pump was good. Cleaned the air filter (K&N), this was the probable culprit. In the valley it likely would have been fine but running at 100+ kph at 14,000 feet eats alot more air... Also changed the oil and cleaned everything I could - I oil the chain daily so it creates alot of nastyness which I normally ignore. Haven´t cleaned the exterior since I left California - thought was that it would attract less attention;futile anyway so it will pull into Buenos Aires looking its age. No fotos from the shop fun because I was working in a little garage in old Cusco and by the time I though of taking a picture I was filthy as were the wrenches working there. Ran it on a quick high RPM test and it feels normal.

I crossed my fingers and checked out of Cuzco. I am heading toward Puno on another high altitude twisty road through the Andies. Took this foto at about 4200 meters - the scenery is fantastic.

Because I got a late start I pulled into a little town (Santa Rosa) at about 5 pm - the next place was just too chancy and dark clouds were forming. I´ll be in Puno tomorrow morning, weather permitting, and besides, I´m not in the high-miles mode.

I am the only guest at the only hostel in town - no hot water or heat but I´m getting used to it. Rate is 8 soles or about U$S 2.60.

A good week!

Machu Picchu

I look worked because I am - I just returned from climbing to the peak above the ruins. DO IT!
I've sent email that has been posted to moto forums and received several helpful replies - thanks to all. Tomorrow I do the shotgun approach and pull the top off the bike and clean/check/drain everything I can touch.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Inca Trail

Toured sites in the various valleys surrounding Cuzco. Spectacular sights and history. There's a good reason people from around the world come here. Tomorrow Machu Picchu.
Having problem with moto that I hope is easily fixed.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Cuzco, Peru

Woke up early yesterday to the sounds of straining diesel engines but no rain and feeling like I had been embalmed with kerosene and then beaten with rubber hoses that had been filled with sand.
Couldn't bear the thought of food so I crammed into 5 layers of cloths, most dry, and headed out.
A glorious drive over good roads and great weather. Made it to Cuzco by 1:30, checked into a hotel and immediately fell asleep - didn't get up until this morning at 6 AM. Pretty sure I had a mild case of hypothermia after driving wet for hours at freezing temperatures - couldn't get warm until today. Finally saw llamas wandering the mountains.
Today I am taking the tour of the surrounding cities and countryside - tomorrow I go to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is closed for the month of february so I take the train (had wanted to hike it)
Attaching a few prior fotos and one of today hiking on the Incan Trail.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Ignorance is Miserable! Chaljuanca, Los Andes, between Nazca and Cuzcu

Flew over the lines - a little underwriting was the consensus the night before talking to those who had done flight and I agree. Need to see the images I shot in full size. The lines are great, the flight was a tediously staged event that was 90 minutes late - but you have to do it and they know it all to well.
Left the hot desert floor and immediately began climbing - had to add a layer of cloths at 46 km and 20 minutes later I added everything I had. Then it started raining and the secondary road turned into a bumpy mud hole, and then it got worse - single track at about 15 mph for 45 minutes as I passed through the clouds - then it fools you an it gets nice for awhile... Made good time but cold at 4000 meters (13000 ft) and then it starts snowing - and I forgot my snow tires and arctic cloths for my south-america-in-the-summer trip - silly me!
Too late to turn around so I press on - for hours - at 4550 meters (15,000 ft). Incredibly, the bike has great power and handling up here.
Were I to do it again I would park the moto and fly over as an excursion.
I stopped at a little village to warm up and take a foto and some guy wanders up, looks me and the bike over, and says "tres huevos" then wanders off.
I pressed on knowing I would make civilization before dark - ya right, but it depends on the definition of civilization. I never thought I'd be really happy to drop down to 3000 M altitude. It rained the entire time, it's raining now, it will rain tomorrow. Did I mention that the hotel has hot water but no heat?
I will put on everything I own that is dry and look for some better rain gear in the next town. I love my sleeping bag for times like this (there have been a few). Tried to give my tent away several times to backpackers - not needed - so I'll lug that anchor to argentina.
Sure seems like a xanax moment to me.
No data service so the pretty plane and blowing snow fotos will have to wait.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Nazca, Peru

A short ride today with a rest stop and visit to Nazca. Have 7 AM flight tomorrow to overfly the Lines of Nazca (googe image - its worth it).
An amazing and rugged place. Staying in great hotel (Hotel Alegria for you future travelers) for cheap.
Met some fun Tazmanians (a first) for lunch at a Parrilla (food other than fried chicken and french fries! And so good I took a picture!)
No data service so no image today.
Next I head into the mountains towards Cuzco and Machu Picchu.

Nick
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Police Extorsion, Lima Peru

Driving south along the coast there is a great section of highway similar to I-5 in California; as I crested a hill there is an officer with a wand pulling over cars (but only nice cars, and me). Once stopped he systematically directs you to his partner, the grand pubah who sits on his truck and accuses you of something. In my case it was illegal passing, and then threatened to keep my documents and mail them to my embassy when I paid my fine. A solution was found when he suggested I could pay the fine directly. The foto is of the family who tried to help and later pulled over a couple miles later to make sure I was OK. Thanks! Turned out I didn't negotiated enough as I paid several times what they did for the same "crime".
Made it through Lima and then they closed the highway (?) so I pulled over at the first sign that said playa and found a little hotel on the beach.
Next stop Pisco where I plan to look around and spend a day.

Nick
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Almost forgot - what some people call pets other people call lunch

Returned to guest house between sites. The innkeeper was making lunch and when I expressed a little interest in the menu she invited me to join them. Mmmm, fried Guinea Pig, tastes like chicken, sort of...
Nick
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The ruins at Chan Chan and Sol y Luna

Did the cultural thing today. Chan Chan is a World Heritage Site but found the Temple of the Moon more captivating. It is older but better preserved as they built 5 subsequent temples, one over the other, and when excavated, you are able to see actual art and architecture dating from the time of Christ. Hired private guides for both sites who significantly contributing to making sites interesting.
Spent an hour talking with some Italians over breakfast who were in southern Peru last week - got some great tips.
The adobe structures in foto background are part of an old city along a fertile river region just inland from Trujillo.
Tomorrow I travel.
Nick
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Trujillo, Peru

Crossed into Peru yesterday. Made really good time and Peru was the easiest/friendliest/freest border crossing yet. Since Peru is so large I picked up a $100 worth of bongos at the border - normally I just go to an ATM - 2/3 of them turned out to be counterfeit that the first gas station attendant spotted; asi la vida.
Spent last night in a sleepy little coastal village at a Sheraton, not The Sheraton, no hot water was my first clue. Why this place? Simple it is the only lodging in town. The owner was great and invited me to dine with his family - later I cruised bike into town and the taxi boys (literally, this country is full of 3-wheeled mopeds called mototaxis) had a million questions, see foto.
Cruised south today making great time. The scenery goes from tropical jungle to arid ranges in about 2 hours then becomes rocky barren desert in just a few more. Unfortunately, when they don't burn their garbage they just take it to the desert and dump it - then the strong winds blow it forever - shredded black plastic bags clinging to everything that can eek out an existence is disheartening.
Pushed to get to this place with plenty of light - found a nice pseudo-hostel; the owner, an expat brit and his Peruvian wife, give archaeological tours of 8,000 year old sites surrounding the city - that's the plan for tomorrow (and I don't have any clean cloths so a layover is necessary).
Got the fotos of volcano hike but can't open them on phone - they'll keep.
Made it through a bunch of check-points today - I have a headlight modulator that flashes the lights from 30% to100% power every second - all the cops here think I know them and am flashing to get their attention - they hesitantly wave - I wave back and they continue the process by waving me through - I keep it on all the time - I know it gets attention on the highway, the entire trip everyone strobe flashes me - they see me coming, a good thing.
Peruvian bus drivers don't like to be passed - had them try to kill me on two occasions until I figured this out - as passing they intentionally pull into the passing lane cutting off advance and try to force you off the road at speed - accelerate hard is the rule. Then they only honk and wave their hand at you to try to distract you - almost as charming as Honduras throwing glass bottles at me from the back of trucks.
Doing some homework studying southern Peru where I want to spend a few days in the mountains.
Nick
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Guayaquil, Equador

Got moto out of airport, same shit only they think they're more important - three inspections, four hours and 70 dollars later I hit the road - and nasty weather at 3200 M. Many trucks going 25 MPH all day - so dangerous I wanted off but there aren't any alternatives.
They should rename the center of this place DOLE, they seem to own everything.
I drove for an hour looking for a decent hotel - couldn't find one - the first place I pulled into charged by the hour and had a decidedly red neon with hearts theme - so I'm staying in a dump with no hot water and a gecko crawling around on the ceiling. My face is black from all the diesel exhaust and dust.
Spectacular scenes - A travel day.
Nick
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Volcano Cotopaxi and Quito

Went on the best excursion today. Got up at dark and joined a small group at a coffee shop then boarded a van for the trip out of the city - switched to a 4X4 loaded with mountain bikes on the roof an hour later and started up. At 11:30 we got to 4,400 meters and started climbing. An hour +/- later we were at 4,800 meters and reached a tiny lodge for a great lunch. Then we pressed on and 90 minutes later were at 5,000 meters (16,404 ft). An hour + to only go 200 meters you ask? In gravel - 7 inches up, slide three inches back, take a breath, repeat for 35 paced, stop and rest. We finally reached the ice cap, Try it!
When we got down to the 4X4 later that afternoon we raced mountain bikes down hill through huge switch-backs to a lagoon at 3,500 meters.
Unfortunately camera battery was dead and phone in hotel so I'm hoping a canadian women who took a few shots for me will forward them.
If the customs office opens tomorrow I'll probably be heading toward the coast.
Exhausting but a Great Day!
Nick
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Quito and surroundings

Read an nice article in the paper about a community about 3 hours south so I took a bus to check it out - the author must work for the tourism bureau.
I'm off early tomorrow to hike and mountain bike volcano Cotopaxi.
The bike? They lied, perhaps wednesday.
Seems the custom service is closed with the rest of the city until then. Buenos Aires is more active on Christmas day than Quito for the past several - they keep reminding me that it's Carnival - I remind them that Rio doesn't become a morgue...
Nick
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