Left the city late morning - had the oil changed and bought some new waterproof gloves and some duct tape for my rain suit. Uneventful, and I wasn't really looking forward to riding more dirt roads in the rain.
Traveled north and took a wrong turn (how do you take a wrong turn onto the only other paved road in the region?, but I did) generally a neutral day until I hit the dirt again and --- tada!--- Incredibly.
The beauty gold standard has been revised - tahoe is now only a 9. This region of Chile is amazing. I did a slow drive and only made 145 km all afternoon.
Pulled into a tiny little town on an inlet bay and ran into a Spaniard and a Chilean whom I shared dinner with and then found a little cabin on the water.
A good day!
Nick
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I Lied

OK, so the Chilean dirt roads can be just as vicious. This morning was just a teaser; this afternoon they got nasty - and then it started raining - a lot! Mi Corazon!
Riding in Argentina was generally flat; throw big mountains and mud into the equation and it gets scar - as in YIKES!
Argentina likes to use danger signs: dangerous curves, dangerous grade, dangerous truck crossing. Chile does not. When you see a Peligroso sign here you have two options: slow down or die. You should expect an extreme turn with loose gravel, reverse banking and a cliff without guard rails - muy peligroso. Needless to say, I had to slow way down and focus on keeping the rubber parts in the down direction.
I had hoped that my new rain gear would be waterproof - a reasonable expectation when you buy quality gear, yes? Silly me. Fortunately my boots are. I need to look for a camping supply store tomorrow for better gear if the sky isn't sunny.
Today I drove Chile Chico to Coihaique. I hope it was beautiful - all I saw was wet.
Tomorrow I will spend an hour tightening things on Mr. Moto.
I got pulled over by some version of military police for leaving a gas station via the IN lane instead of going around the block... These people really need to relax their Pinochet attitude - this guy took himself entirely too seriously - demanded my documents - checked them three times, had a million rapid fire questions - I did the "Doe in the headlights" impersonation. He did the inevitable - say it again but louder and faster - I just slowly scratched myself and tried to look dumber. I was waiting for him to pull a riding crop out of his jack boots and start slapping the bike. Dumb worked - he stomped off.
The rain must have driven all the campers indoors - I had to scramble to find a pseudo-dump for way too much $€¥.
Its only 9 so I'm going to go out exploring.
Nick
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El Chalten

I left El Califate and Los Brasileros this morning and did a casual ride of 133 miles to El Chalten. It was nice riding with them but it was time...
Arrived El Chalten, Logo del Desierto and Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (Fitz Roy) mid-day with time to hike a little (Aleve is good) and ride up to the lake.
For me the gold standard for beautiful mountains is the tahoe region of the Sierra Nevada Range - this place is equally spectacular with the addition of massive glaciers and amazing cloud formations. The little town at the base of it all is charming and hospitable.
This afternoon I ran into a kid on a DR650 with a trashed rear wheel bearing and steered him to a shop in Rio Galleros - 450 km away - but there is nothing here and very little in between - he will probably try to truck the bike to El Califate and then take a bus to Rio G to try to find a part. He was coming south on exactly the route I plan on using so it was nice to hear his experiences (having a huge limb break off a tree and shearing off one of his side bags, followed by a nasty blow out in the middle of nowhere on the same day (after traveling for months without incident.) Asi la vida.
This evening about 10:30 as I was going to get a bite to eat I drove by the little bus station just after one had arrived - it was funny to watch about 40 loaded backpackers scramble to be somewhere, anywhere warm, some hostel, anywhere out of the wind.
Like Torres del Paine, there is no cell service here so when this posts - who knows...
Tomorrow is many miles of dirt on Rt 40 heading north east towards la frontera with Chile.
Nick
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50 km

What a difference 50 km makes! Beautifuller.
I'm laughing, yesterday the Berkley kid was telling me how fast he rides on the dirt roads - I'm thinking he's a really good rider - NOT! These dirt roads are more like occasionally rough golf cart paths; he's in for a rude awakening (hehe).
Nick
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Chile Chico, Chile

Just crossed the border back into Chile and checked into the Plaza Hotel (but with a Bolivian ambiance - I paid more for dinner than the night) . Have been in places with no cell coverage and this place won't allow me to add attachments - no bandwidth.
After several days of light travel I pushed it today. Rode 407 miles in 11 hour 46 minutes with a border crossing and 2/3 of it was dirt and rough rock like a fire-trail road. You can't relax because the road varies from deep gravel (guaranteed to spill a top-heavy bike) to killer washboards interspersed with 1/2 buried rocks that will cut a tire and deep ruts - my arms are exhausted.
El Chalten to Perito Moreno then to Chile Chico, Chile.
Came across a lot of interesting people today. I was in the middle of NOWHERE when I came across two people walking south - stopped to see if they needed help - No, they were just walking the entire continent (with only small packs) - I've met many bicyclist doing the Alaska - Ushuaia trip but these people were just plain loco but they were probably going to make it. Whereas a couple days ago I came upon 2 swiss (a couple) on €5000 bicycles who must have been carrying 70 pounds of stuff attached to every concievable surface - their stated goal was Alaska. - I'm thinking they won't make the northern border of Peru. Had 6 young Israelis flag me down just to say "hello" - they were driving a rented club-cab truck south and wondered how far the next town was and did it have gas - they didn't have a clue - I suggested they get some extra gas cans (and water) because they had a 350 km section of rocky road and no services to look forward to.
I was stopped to take a foto and out of nowhere drives an old couple in an old ford mini-pickup; they stopped to see if I needed help - I learned they were from sweden - came down, bought a truck, and were just touring around. Finally I shared an ice cream at a gas station with a guy from Berkeley coming south on a KLR 650, he had come south from Alaska and had just been where I was going and visa-versa so we swapped suggestions.
A good day. Tomorrow I ride the Austral (Ruta 7).

Nick
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Torres del Paines - then onto El Califate.

Left P. Arenas early 3 days ago and headed for the Chilean national park Torres del Paines. Spent two days hiking and visiting. Did a 8 km low difficulty hike to a fantastic vista point below the glaciers - I was happy to be able to do it considering knee surgery just before I left US. The image of the mountains from about 40 km out on the appreach to the park from Puerto Natales - from there on the roads are mainly rough dirt and gravel; unfortunately, they're paving many of the remaining tierra (earth) roads which seemingly takes the adventure out of Adventure Riding.
The Brazilians say they took a vote in Ushuiua to "adopt" me and I'm glad to still be riding with them, having a great time, and learning a little portugese how to travel cheaper.
We left T.dP. this morning and crossed la frontera (border) in the middle of nowhere from Chile back into Argentina and got stuck at passport control behind a combination hotel/bus (its this monster mercedes bus on steroids pulling a hotel trailer like a sleeper train car but with a huge pop out section) full of OLD Germans! (enough said!!!) We RACED to the next border control (about 10 km) to get ahead of them.
Traveled all dirt from the park to la frontera, then pavement for about 30 miles, and then we got to La Ruta 40 (its famous) and rode a bunch more dirt - probably 400 km in the last 3 days.
We lost the tall dane this morning at the park - he was staying to camp for another 5 days. I'll likely split off tomorow and head north to El Chalten for a day and then to Porito Moreno where I'll cross back into Chile (I dread the hours wasted at their borders). The Brasileros want to spend time here and I've already spent several days on a prior trip. Also, they will travel remainder of the trip in Argentina.
Nick
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Yesterday was The Day I made the trip for.

We left Ushuaia early this morning to drive Ruta 3 along the Atlantic Ocean to the Argentien border. At San Sebastian we crossed into Chile and rode dirt roads across the continent following the Straights of Magallan. The views were spectacular - the sea on one side and the base of the andies on the other - with small herds of wild Guanaco and flocks of swan and flamingos resting or nesting on the many small lakes. Late in the afternoon we pulled onto Puerto Porvenir and boarded a ferry over to Punta Arenis. Got in late and leaving early - gotta' go!
Nick
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The end of the line & the motor home from hell...

Went out sight-seeing today and wound up at the national park - the road out is officially Route 3 and it's end is really as far as you can drive.
There was an amazing RV parked out there which is an adaptation of the vehicles they race in the Dakar Ralley - impressive!
Nick
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Made It!

Arrived Ushuaia on a beautiful summer day - we celebrated with a great lunch, Argentine beer, and heartfelt cheer.
I'm going to play tourist for a few days before heading north into Chile.
Nick
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Next stop, Ushuaia, Fin del Mundo

Our little family is growing.
One hour to go!
Nick
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Rio Grande (sur), Argentina, almost there

Left Rio Galleros early this morning riding with the Brazilians.
The goddess of wind tricked us; it was relatively calm in the city but 20 km out it was screaming - and then it got worst - 50 km sustained with unbelievable gusts. We all had giddy smiles on our faces each time we stopped just to have made it...
We only rode 239 miles today - about 70 miles on rutted hard packed dirt and gravel - it wouldn't have been a hard ride but for the cross-winds that would blow the bikes across lanes when you hit loose pack and completely over when we stopped. I met a south african guy in Buenos Aires that told me he had to tie his bike down like a small plane each time he stopped - I just rolled my eyes - now I'm a believer. I hit loose gravel while passing a semi and when I cleared the truck and got hit by a gust I almost became road kill when I was blown 6 ft skidding diagonally - your only friend in those instances is the throttle used liberally.
We cleared two borders today - that means four stops (they are not consolidated) for passport control and to clear the bikes through customs. Leave Argentina, enter Chile, leave Chile, enter Argentina - and they almost fought a war over this little strip of pseudo- tundra.
About noon we boarded a ferry to cross the Straights - there isn't a dock - this monster barge-thing just rams itself into the shore and drops a ramp onto a biece of windswept concrete; then the biggest truck rolls off fast so they can get rid of some weight and try to push the ferry higher onto the shore. Riding onto it looked harder than it was.
A good day of adventure riding!
Checked into a little dive that would make a Bolivian envious (it has heat and hot water) but that's about it - no stars tonight.
Had a great meal of Argentine beef and wine and many laughs while telling lies of past exploits - the sun was still up when we left at 10 pm - getting closer to the Antarctica.
Going to make an early start tomorrow for Ushuaia.

Nick
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A Fun, Challenging, Interesting Day: Caleta Oliva to. Rio Gallegos

I met up with the Brasileros and a Dutch guy a couple hours after arriving Caleta Oliva - we shared some beers and decided to ride together the following day - they're really nice guys and we laugh a lot but one of them almost killed me when, while riding around a steep downhill curve at high speed with cars close behind, he decided to do an emergency stop (with me between him and the cars) so he could take a picture... I told you I didn't think we shared riding styles. He soon came to appreciate my displeasure and that if, the cars didn't kill him, then I would.
At the next gas station one of their bikes started acting up - a Britt riding an old Honda TransAlp from Alaska rolled in - he was heading south also - so after riding slowly as a herd with the Brazilians for an hour we teamed up and raced south to get to town before dark.
Gas stations have become little oasis' for adventure travelers (motos) - there is only one North-South road left in the country so like migrating animals, we're forced together - we met a German couple that had been riding BMWs for 6 months, some Italians and several Argentines in a matter of hours. The distance between stations is now measured in hours so everyone stops lest you get stranded.
The vistas and landscapes have been amazing - and Montana has nothing on this version of Big Sky Country - Stunning!
This morning I tried going south solo (the Britt headed for El Califate) - with the intent of making Ushuaia. How hard was the wind blowing this morning, you ask? ? ?
I was leaving town and approached an intersection that was in the lee of a building - as soon as I cleared the building and preparing for a stop light I began to put my leg down and got slammed by a gust that blew the bike down like a toy (and I was anticipating the wind) - all I could do is hop off, schrug it off, bend down and hoist it up, and continue on. It's howling!
I made it 10 km out of town and while driving only 70 kph (40 mph) the cross winds had me leaning over so hard I feared that if the wind shifted I'd just fall over AND I was still being blown off the road. The weather service is saying 50 kph sustained with gusts to 80.
Someone said Victory Favors the Bold - sounds like Shakespeare - but I can't think of the reciprocal except that to have traveled alone today would probably have made me an example of mother nature thinning the herd.
As I was heading back into town I stopped at a bike shop for some chain lube and an extra 5 liter tank for emergency gas and who did I run into... Yep, the Brazilians. Looks like fate would have us traveling together.
I played tourist this afternoon - we all had our oil changed at the shop that was repairing the dead bike - plans call for the next stop to be a good parrilla and then call it an early night. Tomorrow might be a long day.
ps. I have some great images but they're impossible to upload with the BlackBerry because of poor connectivity.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Wildlife

Here are a couple wildlife images from the canon camera - the llamas were a bonus - I was just cruising along on a dirt road and there they were...
Nick
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Bienvenido de Comodoro Rivadavia y Chau

Had pizza and beers with fellow riders last night - I decided that the Brazilians and I don't have a compatible riding style and the Danes were going to hang around through the weekend. Asi la vida.
I headed south getting an early start. Arrived beautiful downtown Comodoro Rivadavia mid day. I'm making good time and the southern latitudes are starting to show themselves - the weather is getting cooler/cold; I had to add layers of cloths this morning and the grip heaters are a welcome addition.
For some unfounded reason I envisioned las pampas as a southern version of the rolling plains of Wyoming (sans Buffalo). Little did I expect the barren high desert-like conditions in the above image - and it just goes on and on and on...
I rolled through CR to the coast just to see the ocean - liked it, so decided to drive a few twisty roads... Good choice. I'm 80 km south in a little town right on the water called Caleta Olivia.
Got the moto bedded down for the night - gonna go explore...
Nick
via BlackBerry

Rode south making good time against monster cross winds - arrived Las Grutas for a late lunch and decided to keep going the additional 250 km.
Just out of town the wind got even crazier and then I drove through a little pueblo and, presto!, it was blowing just as hard but in the opposite direction. Shortly thereafter I came across 3 Brasileros on the side of the road - fixing broken spokes on an aftermarket chinese rim- they have beautiful new Yamaha 660 thumpers but one guy decided black rims were to die for... The prior day he changed 14 spokes. Needless to say he wasted today looking for factory rims.
I played tourist today and went out to Peninsula Valdez - 390 km, about 240 on dirt roads, to see the same scenery as on the mainland with but, at the end of the road I was overjoyed to see a pod/herd/shitload of elephant seals sunning themselves on a beach... Hmmm
At the hotel there are a group of Scots driving 4 Austins (1929-1931) to Ushuaia from Buenos Aires; they're traveling around the world at 30 miles per hour.
Gonna hook up with the Brazilians and a couple of Danish riders later tonight and talk about heading south in the morning.
Nick
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My Bahia Blanca life is complete.

Now I can say I truly saw Bahia Blanca... Although, if you look closely, you can see a breast on public display - something our former dickweed and traitor AG (no, not Gonzo, the other more prudish traitor) Ashcroft would censor.
I'm heading south now with the goal of San Antonio Oeste but I might press on as it's only about 450 km...

Nick
via BlackBerry

Blue Sky to Bahia Blanca

The subject says it all. The day was glorious as I headed across country to the coast - I was admiring these huge billowy cloud formations all day when, with little warning, the sky became a mid-day squall with huge winds and the clouds blew black and dumped on me. It was hot and I could see clear air 5 km ahead so I just thought of the shower as a refreshing little spritz... I have a feeling I'll be cursing similar but more extreme weather like this in the future but today it was hot and nice.
Bahia Blanca is a coastal city (I did a B-line for the ocean) with a coastline that a Moscovite would find hard to love.
I made good time and, because it doesn't get dark until almost 10 pm, I had a chance to see the old city.
I'll snap a foto of the obligatory central plaza in the morning so that if you don't make it here before you go to meet Allah you can say you saw it - it doesn't rate among the 10,000 places top see...
Finally, for anyone who still has money left to invest you (and the Chinese) will be pleased to know that the biggest retailer in the world has a SuperStore here (albiet, with an empty parking lot).
7 days and counting...
Nick
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Partiendo de Buenos Aires

Had a delay yesterday and figured I'd call it good karma - took care of a couple last minute whatevers, had the oil changed, and went to a great old parrilla in San Telmo...
Had the traditional Cafe con leche and media lunas at La Pharmacie this morning (see, there is a god). It's a beautiful day for riding and I'm looking forward to Bahia Blanca tonight.
I'm off!
Nick
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New Year '09 and Bike Mods in Buenos Aires

I arrived Buenos Aires just in time for New Years - I was traveling with the max allowable luggage but only three changes of cloths (literally).

I brought down a set of tires (not available here), a fender to replace my cracked front, a new fairing to replace a Bolivia damaged piece, a new chain, a spare seat (I'm taking the custom one home to use on the new bike), a heated grip kit and controllers (I'm never doing altitude again in the rain with freezing hands), a front fork brace (it shakes at speed with the agressive 50/50 tires - I learned the hard way in Mexico), new brake pads (super grippy HH front and rear), new waterproof outer gear and riding jacket (a lesson from Peru), misc small parts and hardware, slime, two cameras, two new laptops (I'm a tech mule for friends when I come south) --- they sell kitchen sinks and chain lube here so I didn't bring those althought I should have brought a new front chain sprocket...

I had the tires and chain put on and have installed the rest of the parts over the last week. Walter, my amigo that has the same bike, has been a great help. Last weekend we ripped the front end off to replace many parts and tighten every nut/bolt/screw I could touch.

Today I installed a switched circuit and the heated grips/controller - then found some old lumber laying around that I crammed it under the engine guard with the rear wheel hanging off a curb to get the back wheel off the ground so I could change the dogbones in the rear suspension - this gives it an extra inch of lift in the back - the weight of the bags will take care of that.

Then I rushed to Palermo Viejo to meet German for beers and to put the finishing touches on route planning. He has traveled far and wide down here and had some great advise.

The plan is to leave Tuesday morning for the east coast - then follow that south until there isn't any more. At Ushuaia, Argentina I turn around and head north along the spine of the Andes toward Valparaiso, Chile. That should take about 3 weeks or so and then I'll head back across the continent to Buenos Aires via Mendoza for some wine and Cordoba to visit with friends. Then I'll check into a hospital for a tune up. Actually, I need surgery to repair a broken tendon in my right shouler (torn rotator..) - getting young is a bitch.

Last time I traveled I thought I would/could map out the journey - that concept lasted about 4 days - this time it's a little less specific: drive south then north by northwest, then east.

Most of the work is done and about the only thing left to do is change the oil and pack - more later...