Tuesday, January 20, 2009

A Fun, Challenging, Interesting Day: Caleta Oliva to. Rio Gallegos

I met up with the Brasileros and a Dutch guy a couple hours after arriving Caleta Oliva - we shared some beers and decided to ride together the following day - they're really nice guys and we laugh a lot but one of them almost killed me when, while riding around a steep downhill curve at high speed with cars close behind, he decided to do an emergency stop (with me between him and the cars) so he could take a picture... I told you I didn't think we shared riding styles. He soon came to appreciate my displeasure and that if, the cars didn't kill him, then I would.
At the next gas station one of their bikes started acting up - a Britt riding an old Honda TransAlp from Alaska rolled in - he was heading south also - so after riding slowly as a herd with the Brazilians for an hour we teamed up and raced south to get to town before dark.
Gas stations have become little oasis' for adventure travelers (motos) - there is only one North-South road left in the country so like migrating animals, we're forced together - we met a German couple that had been riding BMWs for 6 months, some Italians and several Argentines in a matter of hours. The distance between stations is now measured in hours so everyone stops lest you get stranded.
The vistas and landscapes have been amazing - and Montana has nothing on this version of Big Sky Country - Stunning!
This morning I tried going south solo (the Britt headed for El Califate) - with the intent of making Ushuaia. How hard was the wind blowing this morning, you ask? ? ?
I was leaving town and approached an intersection that was in the lee of a building - as soon as I cleared the building and preparing for a stop light I began to put my leg down and got slammed by a gust that blew the bike down like a toy (and I was anticipating the wind) - all I could do is hop off, schrug it off, bend down and hoist it up, and continue on. It's howling!
I made it 10 km out of town and while driving only 70 kph (40 mph) the cross winds had me leaning over so hard I feared that if the wind shifted I'd just fall over AND I was still being blown off the road. The weather service is saying 50 kph sustained with gusts to 80.
Someone said Victory Favors the Bold - sounds like Shakespeare - but I can't think of the reciprocal except that to have traveled alone today would probably have made me an example of mother nature thinning the herd.
As I was heading back into town I stopped at a bike shop for some chain lube and an extra 5 liter tank for emergency gas and who did I run into... Yep, the Brazilians. Looks like fate would have us traveling together.
I played tourist this afternoon - we all had our oil changed at the shop that was repairing the dead bike - plans call for the next stop to be a good parrilla and then call it an early night. Tomorrow might be a long day.
ps. I have some great images but they're impossible to upload with the BlackBerry because of poor connectivity.
Nick
via BlackBerry