In the mountains south of San Jose

Didn't make it very far today - 50% by design/50% fate. Tried to find tires in San Jose - only street tires available at several places. I will ride further south on these.
Up at 2700 meters now and it gets cold, dark and foggy fast so I pulled into a micro lodge lest I become road kill. There is only 1 north/south route for the continent through very twisty narrow roads and the truck drivers must be Guatemalan. It will be interesting to walk a few trails in the early AM as there is nada happening this evening - early to bed...
Saw several interesting animals today; got a ticket for going 97 in a 90 zone - I will just consider it a karma warning or payback for all the times I might have been going a little faster.
A Costa Rican day,
Nick
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Diving Playa del Coco

Enough driving, time for a little touring. Went for a couple dives this morning and a lot of nothing this afternoon.
Nick
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Playa del Coco, Costa Rica

You know that imaginary line that runs between Tijuana and San Diego? Well, they put one down here too.
Everything changes, even the natural landscape, Costa Rica is aptly named and really beautiful.
First right that GPS said went to the coast I took. Wound up in a funky little place full of expats, locals and tourists of the boomer species.
The foto is of the third or 4th of many lines I didn't stand in - ya' I paid another 2 fixers - one to get me out of Nicaragua ($7) and the other to get me into Costa Rica ($20 + 20 to shake hands with the jefe of the border so he would personally walk my stuff to the front of two long lines) and it still took 90 minutes. I'm sure I wouldn't want to deal with Fatherland Security either.
I may run a little further south but I'm going to hang in CR for a couple days.
Saw 5 bikes heading north, none at any borders to talk with.

Nick
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Managua, Nicaragua

Did a slow cruise through El Salvador this morning - detoured 20 k off road to a tiny fishing village at the southern-most tip; the tracks just ended and there was an old woman making pasteles from her front porch and people were bringing their own plates for take-out, so I stopped for lunch - 5 minutes later a couple kids came out - 15 minutes later ever boy between 6 and 12 within a mile was there. I let one climb on and they all needed a try - grandma just laughed. It was fun.
You can't see a smile from behind a full-face helmet so I've taken to big dopey waves - cops get the Richard Nixon peace sign which they seem to like 'cause they flash lights and wave back.
Leaving El Salvador was a breeze.
I wouldn't wish trying to get into Honduras on anyone - well, maybe our Dim Wit.
I thought I'd never pay one of the border vultures - today I paid and it was worth it. 5 different offices, 5 different fees, each needing a copy of something only available at the prior (trips to the copy kiosks) - no office marked and all pretending to be closed because it was Sunday. Then there was the fumigation process and the requisite bribe because the pump was broken... After the first 15 minute slow jerk I just gave my vulture my passport, all my docs and some money and told him to come get me when he needed more. They got me for about $45; he got me for 20 bucks - and it was worth it.
After that warm welcome I guess I shouldn't have been surprised when people threw garbage and bottles at me from the backs of trucks. I hit the after burner and didn't stop until I got to the opposite border (except for the 2 federal police check-points). At the Nicaraguan border people jokingly asked "so, how did you like Honduras" I guess my experience and reaction is common.
I kept the jets on and rolled into Managua - pulled into the first nice hotel and paid rack rate.. Going to check out the Lago de Nicaragua tomorrow.
A Long Day,
Nick
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Sonsonate, El Salvador

El Salvador is a kinder and gentler place than Guatemala. Its as beautiful as I remember and the guns seem less omni-present. Driving is a relative treat and entry into the country was simple and free. Last night I was begging for heat and today I'm staying at The Plaza (but not that Plaza) because it has A/C. There is a festival in al centro so I'm off to say hello.

Nick
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Pan American Highway

No wonder I was a little cold yesterday - I crossed the mountains at altitude 3670 meters (12,000 feet) in the freezing rain. Electronic Fuel Injection is a good thing.
Wanted to stay at the lake but too cold.
Blew by about 100 cars waiting on construction just outside of town - the flag men looked at me and waived me through with a warning. I had the highway to myself for about 20 km.
just twisted my way through Guatemala City - YIKES!
On the highway for El Salvador now.
Nick
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Guatemala

Guatemala is not for the timid!
Visited San Christobal at night - it is nice - definitely popular with young europeans; you can tell when a bus or mini-collectivo rolls into town because there will be pods of under-dressed backpackers (the kind with back-packs not roll-aboards) scurrying about looking for shelter.
I lied, its 2300 m or 7200 ft up and it gets cold (and lively) at night.

Left for the frontier about 10 AM and immediately hit weather, high cross winds and light rain on twisty mountain roads. Had to bundle up, then dropped into the valley and baked - arrived at the border and checked out of Mexico painlessly (thankfully I did it by the book!) Then I headed south into Guatemala - only the road just ends, nada, it gradually turns into a maze of stands, stalls and confusion. I just did my best to follow the biggest, loudest truck - and then he stopped to chat. When I asked for directions people would just laugh or walk away. Finally a cab meandered up, looked, laughed, and waved me to follow - he honked and reved and led me around stalls to a bit of blacktop and pointed - I gave him about 5 bongo bucks in coins.
The Guatemala side was different - there is a reason no one crosses here. When I pulled up they sprayed the bike with a chemical fungicide (or something) and then demanded payment - fine - only he won't accept pesos; he explains that this is Guatemala, he is an official, and will only accept their bongos - I do the math, add twenty pesos (2 dollars) in pesos and he rolls - stamps my form. Then I go to passport control - its easy - then I go to customs (to import the vehicle) and they've gone to lunch, for an hour+. Me and the only other car wait & wait then get handed over to Moe and Larry, who later give us a hand-full of forms and point us to Curly behind door number 3 (complete with an armed guard where we each part with about $4 in Quetzales which we had to go get from a money changer on the street - then its back to Moe who needs the form I got when I properly left Mexican customs - otherwise its go-back through the maze time...
That behind me I set GPS for Lago de Atitlan (advise from Harry, thanks) and headed into beautiful rain forested mountains where it promptly, rained. No worries - I've got the right gear (thanks Rick and Phil). And then, at altitude, it gets foggy and then rainy and cold, and then the road goes to hell, and the drivers here are ruthless, crazed zombie bastards with a grudge! Got forced off the road until I figured out that passing on blind curves in the mountains (and its all mountains) is an accepted practice. Did I mention that their topes (speed-bumps) out-do Mexicos and they don't feel obligated to mark them in any manner - too sweet.
So I'm now racing through the pea soup fog blindly passing on curves (because I'm cold and want to get there and GPS thinks its close - except GPS doesn't have good Guatemala data - and then I hit road construction - only they don't do such a good job of providing a temporary place to drive - but that doesn't slow anyone down too much - until a big rig jack-knifes about 10 cars in front of me and it closes the muddy, wet, rainy non-highway in both directions. Reminder, I'm on a motorcycle and at this point the adventure is becoming trying. Someone runs to get a big tractor/grader while the drivers argue, shout and point. I see an opening - there's a 3 foot gap and I'll fit - so I take it and plow 15 miles down the mountain in the rutted mud while traffic goes crazy in the uphill slog.
Today I used ever on and off-road skill I've got. They're going to slaughter the BMW-boy.
Finally pulled into town about an hour after dark and someone pointed me in the direction of the zona hoteles (I would have stopped earlier only I hadn't seen a place since leaving mexico). Found a good place on the second try and now Moto is resting quietly in the foyer and I used all their hot water. Saw a kid dump his bike in town on the slick streets - glad I outfitter Moto industrially.
Like I said: Guatemala is not for the timid!
But now that I'm warm and have seen the lake: a Good Day,
Nick
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San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas

This is the nicest city I've visited in a very long time.
It is old and preserved like old Saville Spain (coble stones, colonial arch. with wrought iron), hip like palermo viejo in Buenos Aires, has absolutely no litter and almost no traffic (everyone is seemingly walking everywhere) and appears primarily a mexican (some europeans) destination. It is at 3000 feet so its cool and many of the locals wear traditional clothing - I stopped on the road 20 km before town to take a foto of the women thinking it was an occasion - but it is semi-common attire and very charming. It seems odd to say but the cleanliness is striking. The guide books talk about the churches, and they're here, but serve mainly as an anchor for traditionalists.
Rode for an hour with a Danish guy (the BMW) but his riding style was ... less aggressive (if you aren't in control here you become a target), so he might still be on the road.
Dropped the bike at a stand still getting gas and destroyed the rt. front turn signal - was right down the street from a Kawasaki store and a few minutes with an exacto knife had one of theirs fit mine. The guys installed it and found a bolt I needed at no charge. The center stand is junked (a death by a million topes/speed bumps, I REALLY hope I don't see them further south) so its gone tomorrow - 4 kg I don't need.
A Good Day with more to discover tonight,
Nick
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Hola de Chiapas

Hung with Los Harleys until noon then headed out. They suggested I head inland to see San Christobal de las Casas. Made it to Tuxla Gutierrez, also recommended, and its very nice. It has a small town feel and charm and there's a genuine element that just feels good - I can't place its but its here.
Making good time so its a coin toss, head for Guatemala or stick around and see the sights tomorrow.
Pulled into a little hotel with a gated courtyard and found a BMW 650 (with duct tape over every BMW symbol and reference) so I parked next to it, checked in, and then left a note on the bike. Perhaps I'll have a new riding partner.
A good day,
Nick
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Paradise Found in...

Headed out early and after a couple hours arrived in Puerto Escondido - very nice!
I snaked my way down to the beach and at this Denny's there's a little herd of harleys so I pulled in and looked for people with helmets. Walked up as they were heading out so I asked to tag along.
After 68 speed bumps, 2 military check points and a couple hours of riding south we pulled into Paradise.
These guys (with a few wives in a tail car) knew where they were going and I was happy to be invited me to stick around for a few days - don't know about days but...
Mark this spot on your map, it is the next Ixtapa or Cancun: Huatulco
It is being built out now with excess capacity and they've erecting a shanty town just for the construction workers; they've already built the airport. The mexicans know it won't last.
My new amigo are a small club of Harley afficianados from D.F. on holiday.
It is now officially HOT.

Nick
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Ahhh Acapulco!

Got up early for a half-day ride into Acapulco, you know, beautiful beaches, maybe watch a few practice dives from the cliffs and then kick back for a little treat. NOT!
Driving into town was like any other city here, they forgot to build the infrastructure and compounded because of the geography. I got stuck in a 2 hour traffic deadlock while baking in the sun. Did I mention that the highway is all unmarked city streets that wind around mountains so there's no logic - thankfully GPS was there but it wouldn't make the cars move. Anyway, I saw the famous cliffs and then headed for the bypass route.
Probably my bad but I can always do the all inclusive package in my walker.
Got pseudo-searched at 3 of the 4 checkpoints, they're stupid but non-invasive or threatening (as long as you don't mind children with guns). I thank them and head for the next chasis-wrecking speed bump; I counted about 90+ today.
Today was 492 LONG kilos. I thought I would get to arrive in the park region (per the map,,, and its twisty roads all day despite the map) but alas, Yosemite its not. I could use a day off of the saddle but unless I roll over a hidden bluff into paradise tomorrow I will just press on. Glad I brought a backup paperback because tonight its just a wide dusty spot in the road.
Saw no other adventure riders today - I've left my moto parked in a courtyard in front of the office of the nicest hotel in town (155 pesos) so hopefully someone like minded will spot it and want to ride together - I'm not holding my breath.

I'm in Beautiful Pinotepa Nacional, Oaxaca, Mexico.
Nick
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Zihuatanejo, Guerrero

The valleys and jungles of Muchoacon are the most spectacular scenery yet. Just south of Maruata at Rio Cachan Michoacan I stopped for lunch at a little 3 palapa village - I ask the old woman for a menu, she says "fish" - I ask her, anything else? - she says "fish", then after a long pause, she says perhaps she can maybe find a chorizo (a mexican sausage, and you don't want to know). I think about where, in the middle of nowhere, she is gonna' scare up a sausage... So I say "fish" and she beams. 20 minutes later she brings me a 2 fish (heads on) meal fit for a king (complete with a jalapeno salad, pass). I took a foto of her bringing it out - she was very happy and the fish were very good.
The highway south is like old route 1 south of big sur on the California coast - except there are about 200 kilo of virgin beaches intermixed with great rock formations.
As the sun got low I pulled into Ixtapa and thought: Miami (complete with the grey mass, but to be expected here). I asked a local for directions to a mexican hotel and arrived in Zihuatanejo, Guerrero a little town on the water about 5 K south of miami. I just don't think I could get a room at the InterContinental for 250 pesos ($24) and they let me push the bike into the office for security (something similar has happened every night).
Also, Driving on weekends is much nicer/safer - many fewer trucks.
Today I went through 6 military checkpoints - got stopped and had to open my bags at one (the first time). When I asked why they hurried out a young cheerful english speaker with a very old gun who fed me polite bullshit while a grunt checked my underware and their commander played with my GPS. I'll take a polite non-corrupt military over the old federally system any day, but they seem a little invasive to the locals.
Those massive speed bumps from hell (on the highway at EVERY town/berg/pueblo and taco stand) are killing me and my moto's guards/center stand. I'm considering taking it off except then the devil bumps bash something less delicate. They really need to figure out that they're just destroying their new cars with no result because they proceed to race between them anyway.
My new monster tires have saved my a** at least twice so far (and I haven't dropped the bike once in all the sand/gravel/dirt - not possible with street tires) but it would be nice if their life could be measured in more than just days. One week into the trip and they are about 50% gone.
And finally, Mexicans need to consider alternative ways of disposing of their garbage - they burn it. Before the time when everything came wrapped in plastic this might have been a good solution, but today the inhabited valleys are capped with the smoke from burning tons of PET bottles that seemingly smolder all day and whose smell goes on forever! Perhaps it really isn't worth recycling and we've created an artificial economy around it, but at least we don't have it littered and lingering everywhere.
A negative ending complete with trivia? - I guess that's what happens after 8 days of no TV or Google - in summary: a long and Good Day,
Nick
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Friday night in Puerto Vallarta then on to Colima

Rolled with las chicas most of the day on Friday. Stopped at a nice beach for a late lunch then they headed for good surf and I sprinted into Puerto Vallarta. Found a great little hotel in the old town, layed down for a nap and didn't get up untill saturday morning - so much for party central.
Having a nice time traveling Mexico so I've decided to keep going instead of trying to ship the bike from Guadalajara.
Had adjustment with Chiropractor this morning and then pressed on a couple hundred kilos to the Colima.
I think I am finally out of the influence of the grey mass of boomers invading Mexico. PV is becoming a giant condo-conversion.
An observation: we north americans (from USA) like to fuss over the some of the other north americans (the Mexicans) coming north, working our less-desirable jobs and shipping their cash home. I'd be interested to learn statistics on the massive sums leaving the USA, not by vacationing, but by retirees living down here - I think there are hundreds of thousans (or more, they are Everywhere). I think we underestimate the number of social security checks being direct deposited into B of A and then withdrawn here.

Also, Mangos trees are stately; its true, don't drive at night; and finaly, there are A LOT of new cars here - the economy feels like it used, the people dress similarly, and still eat many tacos, but everyone has a new car that they drive either too fast or too slow! Curious.
Nick
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San Blas, Mexico

Arrived Mazatlan early afternoon, did a circuit of old town, found it uninspiring, so we twisted throttle and headed south on 15 towards Tepic. Heard about a charming little coastal pueblo so when the sun got low we headed west through the forests, avocado and mango groves (or is it orchards) to San Blas.
The town is as advertised and more except there must be a Holiday Inn or Motel 6 around because at night all these really special people invaded the plaza saying things like. "Remind me again, what's in a burrito?" - kinda that special tacky that can only truly be perfected in new jersey. We left out of embarrassment keeping our eyes open for the motor coach (aka bus) that had to be close by.
We looked for a good Greek resto and, finding none, had the usual (tacos and a beer). Then I got my head handed to me playing pool.
The GS in the foto isn't mine - I'm still on the 650 VStrom - initially the girls kinda snickered at it but after today they're reconsidering.
Tomorrow we head (you guessed it) South.
A Good Day.
Nick
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The Mianland from La Paz

Drove back up the coast to the ferry terminal in La Paz - while waiting to board two women pulled up on KLR 650s that look like they've done the Baja1000.. Motos are last on first off so we're chatting - they're heading south - not sure how far south but maybe Panama. Over dinner we decide to ride together for awile - they're more into offroad and surfing so time will tell.
The next day: we were to pull into M at 8:00 but we've been running on only one engine all night so looks like this is becoming a cruise - no worries - so it looks like I'll spend the afternoon in Mazatlan and see the sights with the chicas. Turns out they're really fun, adventurious an good company.
Nick
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Los Barriles, BCS

La Paz isn't a pretty place except for the fake "authentico" facade they glued onto their waterfront that is just too transparent. Its a commercial port city so I blew down the coast south 100 k's (I've coverted to metric) to a little fishin' village (that is unfortunately becomming a real town) I'm familiar with and like.
Mex is like Arg - everything just takes longer to accomplish... but I managed to find and buy a ticket for tomorrow's ferry to Mazatlan before leaving town.
I'm staying the night at Martin Verdugo's fishing "resort" (the place I go fishin' with my dad) in Los Barrilos then back to La Paz in the morning.
Today was a rest day so a beer on the beach seemed appropriate followed by dinner with frustrated fishermen - the bite's not on and the wind is blowing (bad things). It is strange to see only two boats in the water - in the summer there are about 40 moored 25 meters offshore.
The moto is running good and is well configured and comfortable, if a bit heavy. So far I've put 2050 km on the clock with a moving average of 85 km/hr (1270 mile @ 53 mph.)
The days are getting longer and warmer.
Not many kilos traveled but a good day.


Nick
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La Paz, Baja California Sur

Rolled into La Paz this afternoon - but not early enough to catch the ferry over to Mazatlan so I'm going to stick around and play tourist for a day. I could hop over to the mainland tomorrow but then I'd have to drive a fill day to get to Mazatlan at the same time the ferry would arrive - but somebody else gets to drive while I have a stateroom and a xanex moment...
Baja has had some nice rain so the desert is alive and in bloom.
Nick
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Breakfast with the Canadians at Rice & Beans

Huervos Ranchereo at Rice and Beans. Next stop, La Paz.
Nick
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San Ignacio, BCS

Rode accross the penensula today with the Canadians - about 4 hours into the ride we were having beers and tacos at a roadside palapa when another two Canadians rolled up... Now we are 5 traveling south. Arrived at pacific ocean so we switched to Pacifico Cervesa. Checked into the 5 star (or is it .5 star) hotel called Rice and Beans. Another Good Day.
Nick
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Cry Havoc and let slip the dogs of Tijuana!

The Journey has finally begun - crossed the border into Mexico this morning - horray! Registering the moto and getting tourist visa was painless and almost efficient. I think I'm going to look back on it with fondness based on some central american stories.
Made it swiftly down the coast to Ensanada - drove through old town to kick-start a few good memories of breaking the law there one more than onr occasion. Still nice! but the two cruise ships in the harbor and the signs screaming "VIAGRA no Rx needed" set a different tone. On the way out of town I was saddened to see Big Box Costco across the street from factory-food Applebee's which was next to the PayDay Advance "store"; Home Depot was just down the road. Let's hear a big round of applause for world-wide free-market consumerism.
Scooted about 300 miles down the coast through beautiful rolling hills and little village (and some horrific condo clubs) to sleepy El Rosario, where the highway makes the dog-leg inland. Met up with a couple Canuks for dinner and beers - we did the obligatory "you show me yours" bike ritual, hit it off, and will be off early together tomorrow. Today was a good day.
Nick
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The ADVENTURE Begins Today

I'll post a foto from the border.
It's 8:30 and I'm heading SOUTH- that will be the opperative word for the foreseeable future.
The weather is great, I'm well rested, and the bike is ready.
Carpe Diem, Nick

New Shoes

Put some big sticky tires on yesterday. Almost ready.
Nick
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