It is old and preserved like old Saville Spain (coble stones, colonial arch. with wrought iron), hip like palermo viejo in Buenos Aires, has absolutely no litter and almost no traffic (everyone is seemingly walking everywhere) and appears primarily a mexican (some europeans) destination. It is at 3000 feet so its cool and many of the locals wear traditional clothing - I stopped on the road 20 km before town to take a foto of the women thinking it was an occasion - but it is semi-common attire and very charming. It seems odd to say but the cleanliness is striking. The guide books talk about the churches, and they're here, but serve mainly as an anchor for traditionalists.
Rode for an hour with a Danish guy (the BMW) but his riding style was ... less aggressive (if you aren't in control here you become a target), so he might still be on the road.
Dropped the bike at a stand still getting gas and destroyed the rt. front turn signal - was right down the street from a Kawasaki store and a few minutes with an exacto knife had one of theirs fit mine. The guys installed it and found a bolt I needed at no charge. The center stand is junked (a death by a million topes/speed bumps, I REALLY hope I don't see them further south) so its gone tomorrow - 4 kg I don't need.
A Good Day with more to discover tonight,
Nick
via BlackBerry