Santa Barbara to Buenos Aires, and then some...

Cruised south along the coast to Avenue of the Giants; Amazing! Did twistys 'till I was tired of them and headed inland to see family. More later. Nick via BlackBerry

On Tuesday I bid on and won an auction for a 2006 V-Strom. Almost identical to Mr. Moto - the seller (Dave) had even outfitted it with most of the stuff I had/wanted; about $2k in add-ons. I got up at 4:30 this morning and boarded the 6 AM flight SBA to Medford Oregon where the Dave met me at the airport. A test drive and 90 minutes later I was making tracks for the coast. The guy suggested that route 299 was one of the best motorcycle roads in california and I have to agree. The weather is glorious right now - a wonderful warm spell that should last through the weekend. I pulled over when I hit the coast; going to spend the night in Arcada. Tomorrow I'm going to do a slow scenic trip down the coast through Fort Bragg and the Great Redwoods. A great day! Nick via BlackBerry

I completed my after-burner run south; arrived MVD just after sunset. Yesterday I asked a local friend with good taste(y) to send me a couple links for a nice hotel in the city- but not downtown. He sent me a couple links, both to the same hotel... Ask and ye shall receive. Anyway, I roll into town looking like death on a cracker and I'm cruising the malicon when I see a Grand hotel - so I whip it into their entrance thinking to get directions... Not necessary, this is the place; except they have rates published at reception and I'm not paying them. I ask chico con leche at reception to make some call for me because I'm doing moto diaries and just don't need 4 stars. He does, everyplace close is sold out so he cuts the price by 50% and I move in. Yesterday I stayed in a DUMP, your basic negative one star hotel. I knew I was in trouble when I could see the bus station from my window. The first week of riding is harder than 4 hours a day in the gym! Today was ...

Montevideo or bust. Nick via BlackBerry

Got up early and checked out the mainland part of the city - blah - then I did a drive around the island: nice. The cold front was settled in with rain so I headed back south through the front and made good weather about 4PM. Still had hours more of constant construction and detours accompanied by several thousand mega trucks - pleasure touring at its finest. Made Port Happy about 8 PM and didn't feel like hotel shopping so I checked into a dive - and what a dive. Tomorrow looks bleak. I don't really want to push it to make Montevideo (725 km plus an international border and two aduanas) and none of the places in between are up for any awards. Whoa is me. Nick via BlackBerry

Today started out nice - drove around the mountain resorts, took the worlds slowest ski lift to no-where and saw a dribblong water fall and then I got stupid! I'm in Florinapolis now - what a drive... Seven hours of hell accompanied by a cold front and pouring rain forever. It felt like Guatamala all overt again. All my moto-muscles are crying. The Brazilians are doing the largest public works road project in the history of... Something. I don't want to talk about it now. Arrived Florinapolis expecting ... I don't know - something nice. Yikes! I won't say more now - so I have a chance to see it better tomorrow. Gotta go, Nick via BlackBerry

I'm up in the mountains at Gramado - beautiful! Just when I thought I was getting comfortable with the background language they went and changed it to this Dutch/Vietnam sounding noise. Actually its a very pretty language; deceptively similar to spanish but don't get your hopes up. There are lots of people who look like me here. Brazil is expensive (well, food and gas is anyway) More later Nick via BlackBerry

I wrote a long, witty blog entry - and then accidently deleted it, *±#¤! The drive up the coast of Uruguay was beautiful and uneventful - got pseudo lost as the map indicated that the bridge below could be used... Out in the middle of nowhere was a United Nations Air base and the highway was designated as an emergency landing strip - they expanded it to HUGE to accomodate cargo planes and it was fully painted as a runway. Uruguay, like Argentina features mainly meals based on beef so a good salad seems newsworthy. Heading North for a change. Nick via BlackBerry

The city was getting monotonous and I needed to get Mr. Moto's documents renewed so I'm off - this time on a loop north through Uruguay and into Brazil. I hope to visit the mountains west of Porto Alegre (Gramando) and just generally ride the coastal road via Florianopolis and as far north as, but not planning on entering, Rio. It's nice to be on the road again! Nick via BlackBerry

A day in Buenos Aires... Walter and I out for a ride on a beautiful sunday afternoon. Nick via BlackBerry

Tuesday morning, while driving La Paz to Potosi Bolivia I had an unfortunate accident. While driving through town on a relatively nice road I approached an intersection, like so many millions here it is crowded and unmetered... There is a minivan filled with about 16 passengers (normal here, they pay 1 Boliviano (12 cents) to go where ever) waiting to make a u-turn. I make eye contact with the driver - I know he sees me - there is a taxi parked in the right lane just past the intersection. Just as I approach the rear of the taxi the mini-van accelerates hard right into my left side pile driving me broadside into the driver's door of the parked taxi. I become moto-sandwich and catch the mini-van's bumper in the left foot and lower leg. My luggage and crash bars absorb all the impact with the taxi and beat the hell out of it so my right leg is completely protected. Momentum carries the moto forward a few feet where gravity takes over and I come to an abrupt and complete horizonta...

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Drove Tucuman - Cordoba and spent a very nice evening with Agustin, Lucia and the twins; Argentine parilla until the early hours of the morning followed by too much fernet. The following day they had work so we met for lunch (just as I was packing it started raining). After a casual coffee I pressed on for Rosario. I out ran the rain about an hour out of town and had clear sky all the way to Rosario where, just 30 km before I arrived, it turned into a blinding downpour, a condensed version of Noah's flood, Bolivia! And then, just as I am soaked to the skin everywhere, it stops and out comes the sun, and it looks nice as far as the eye can see. Then there is a sign that says Buenos Aires 302 km and I think; I can do that in my sleep. I press on. Arrived Bs As late but whole to the warm reception of German y Paula (I gave them 90 minutes notice as I stopped for gas). We went out for a great dinner with a bottle of malbec and visited for hours before they dropped me off at home....

Woke up this morning to the sound of - RAIN. Rolled over and wished it away. By 10 it was still coming down steady so I grabbed an argentine breakfast (cafe con leche, media lunas, and that little orange juice) double up my cloths (all dirty) and went to get Mr. Moto - big surprise there, the back tire is flat again (they don't have Slime here; add that to the list of things to import). Figured it was more of those thorns from hell (that would be Bolivia) so I just aired it up and rode. After about two hours of fast wet driving it started feeling a little loose - tire down to 12 psi - aired up again and in just over three hours of solid rain and driving about 120 kph I pulled into Tucuman. Set the GPS to the tourist info office (why don't we have these?) and 15 minutes later I described the nicest hotel I could remember from last time and she booked it immediately -122 pesos ($38). Used an old David Goldberg trick: when you know you will need something, tip big on firs...

Limped around Salta on a quiet sunday afternoon - the city, like most here, is transformed into a 1950's quaintness on sunday with 90% of businesses closed. Started my diatribe about my mis-adventures in Bolivia but couldn't finish - it was that horrible! The catholics here have a cathedral that should make the pope green with envy - it really is magnificent! And the production value of the evening mass was Broadway, all the way (sound, lighting, ambiance - you name it - they nailed it, all the way down to the choir being perfectly but softly broadcast into the plaza); standing room only at 9 PM with many solo teenagers representing the standing at the back - they're obviously doing many things right. I head out to Tucuman tomorrow - a short ride with a long one to Cordoba the following day. Nick via BlackBerry

This great image is me changing/repairing the rear tire using a pen light last night - second tire that day - a Peruvian waiting for a 30 hour bus ride to Buenos Aires came up and took control. He asked everyone we could talk to about a Gomeria - when he got the same answer three time he grabbed his roll-on and we started walking (its not far, they lied). We finally found a tire repair shop at 9 PM and convinced the owners kid to get his tools and call a taxi - tire off, another taxi & back to the shop, fix tire, call taxi, reassemble everything with pen light, oh, and I need to find a bank... Considered leaving bike but it was a really bad location and we're almost home. The peruvian missed his bus... I made it worth his time with both a lot of gratitude and something he had very little of. Slime went into the punctured front that morning - a thorn from hell. The border crossing could have been worse - see the line of people on the right - it goes for about 200 meters and i...

Today was legend. Adventure riding at its best with a few parts you only need to do once. 13 hours of riding later I'm starving, beat and checked into a dump - and happy for it. More later. Nick via BlackBerry

Leaving Potosi - hope to make it to Jujuy or Salta, Argentina this afternoon. Looks simple on the map but its about the max distance I've been able to do on these roads in a day and they will twisty and at altitude until I drop into the valley the last segment of the ride. Nick via BlackBerry

I'm in Potosi, got here following another cold wet ride at altitude. Service shakey so no images. Next stop Jujuy, Argentina. Nick via BlackBerry

Yesterday morning I did the city tour followed by typical tourist sites (although I managed not to go into a single church). Today I started off at the US embassy - where they efficiently processes my application for additional visa pages - I ran out so countries have been over stamping and they don't like that. Anyway, the embassy is this MASSIVE bomb-proof building in the middle of this walled compound - the double set of bomb-proof doors are so heavy I had to lean to open them (after going through a Bolivian National Police security checkpoint). I didn't know our national interests were so large in Bolivia. Right next door is the British Embassy in a building that looks like it would make a great pub - they had an "Open" sign at their entrance. See fotos. Next I wandered up the mountain and spent the day in the old marketplace and still-active fruit/flower market. Later I found what the tourism industry calls the Whiches Market; I didn't know Bolivia wa...

Crossed into Bolivia on a quiet Sunday afternoon - except I gotta get out of these mountains - I'm parked under a gas station canopy because the weather went from sunny and hot to a massive thunder and lightning storm, with downpour, in less than 15 minutes. Bolivia has done what so many other south american countries have done - reciprocity with toe US. I knew but forgot that I needed a visa. At the border I got a stiff scolding and an explanation of all the various (7) requirements - I had them all covered (including my UN health document with current Yellow Fever certificate - that's the one that brings a $mile to their face) After some boot licking and a donation a solution was found. I now have a 5 year, multi-entry visa and my moto is legal. After an hour wait with no relief I raised my wind screen to the max and pressed on - after 15 minutes the rain turned into hail - glorious! The roads are great and whoever designed the bypass route deserves an award - but I ...

I worked on the bike all morning. Ripped off all the tuperware and the tank, drained a gallon to clear any possible water, flow rate from pump was good. Cleaned the air filter (K&N), this was the probable culprit. In the valley it likely would have been fine but running at 100+ kph at 14,000 feet eats alot more air... Also changed the oil and cleaned everything I could - I oil the chain daily so it creates alot of nastyness which I normally ignore. Haven´t cleaned the exterior since I left California - thought was that it would attract less attention;futile anyway so it will pull into Buenos Aires looking its age. No fotos from the shop fun because I was working in a little garage in old Cusco and by the time I though of taking a picture I was filthy as were the wrenches working there. Ran it on a quick high RPM test and it feels normal. I crossed my fingers and checked out of Cuzco. I am heading toward Puno on another high altitude twisty road through the Andies. Took this...

I look worked because I am - I just returned from climbing to the peak above the ruins. DO IT! I've sent email that has been posted to moto forums and received several helpful replies - thanks to all. Tomorrow I do the shotgun approach and pull the top off the bike and clean/check/drain everything I can touch. Nick via BlackBerry

Toured sites in the various valleys surrounding Cuzco. Spectacular sights and history. There's a good reason people from around the world come here. Tomorrow Machu Picchu. Having problem with moto that I hope is easily fixed. Nick via BlackBerry

Woke up early yesterday to the sounds of straining diesel engines but no rain and feeling like I had been embalmed with kerosene and then beaten with rubber hoses that had been filled with sand. Couldn't bear the thought of food so I crammed into 5 layers of cloths, most dry, and headed out. A glorious drive over good roads and great weather. Made it to Cuzco by 1:30, checked into a hotel and immediately fell asleep - didn't get up until this morning at 6 AM. Pretty sure I had a mild case of hypothermia after driving wet for hours at freezing temperatures - couldn't get warm until today. Finally saw llamas wandering the mountains. Today I am taking the tour of the surrounding cities and countryside - tomorrow I go to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is closed for the month of february so I take the train (had wanted to hike it) Attaching a few prior fotos and one of today hiking on the Incan Trail. Nick via BlackBerry

Flew over the lines - a little underwriting was the consensus the night before talking to those who had done flight and I agree. Need to see the images I shot in full size. The lines are great, the flight was a tediously staged event that was 90 minutes late - but you have to do it and they know it all to well. Left the hot desert floor and immediately began climbing - had to add a layer of cloths at 46 km and 20 minutes later I added everything I had. Then it started raining and the secondary road turned into a bumpy mud hole, and then it got worse - single track at about 15 mph for 45 minutes as I passed through the clouds - then it fools you an it gets nice for awhile... Made good time but cold at 4000 meters (13000 ft) and then it starts snowing - and I forgot my snow tires and arctic cloths for my south-america-in-the-summer trip - silly me! Too late to turn around so I press on - for hours - at 4550 meters (15,000 ft). Incredibly, the bike has great power and handling up he...

A short ride today with a rest stop and visit to Nazca. Have 7 AM flight tomorrow to overfly the Lines of Nazca (googe image - its worth it). An amazing and rugged place. Staying in great hotel (Hotel Alegria for you future travelers) for cheap. Met some fun Tazmanians (a first) for lunch at a Parrilla (food other than fried chicken and french fries! And so good I took a picture!) No data service so no image today. Next I head into the mountains towards Cuzco and Machu Picchu. Nick via BlackBerry

Driving south along the coast there is a great section of highway similar to I-5 in California; as I crested a hill there is an officer with a wand pulling over cars (but only nice cars, and me). Once stopped he systematically directs you to his partner, the grand pubah who sits on his truck and accuses you of something. In my case it was illegal passing, and then threatened to keep my documents and mail them to my embassy when I paid my fine. A solution was found when he suggested I could pay the fine directly. The foto is of the family who tried to help and later pulled over a couple miles later to make sure I was OK. Thanks! Turned out I didn't negotiated enough as I paid several times what they did for the same "crime". Made it through Lima and then they closed the highway (?) so I pulled over at the first sign that said playa and found a little hotel on the beach. Next stop Pisco where I plan to look around and spend a day. Nick via BlackBerry

Returned to guest house between sites. The innkeeper was making lunch and when I expressed a little interest in the menu she invited me to join them. Mmmm, fried Guinea Pig, tastes like chicken, sort of... Nick via BlackBerry

Did the cultural thing today. Chan Chan is a World Heritage Site but found the Temple of the Moon more captivating. It is older but better preserved as they built 5 subsequent temples, one over the other, and when excavated, you are able to see actual art and architecture dating from the time of Christ. Hired private guides for both sites who significantly contributing to making sites interesting. Spent an hour talking with some Italians over breakfast who were in southern Peru last week - got some great tips. The adobe structures in foto background are part of an old city along a fertile river region just inland from Trujillo. Tomorrow I travel. Nick via BlackBerry

Crossed into Peru yesterday. Made really good time and Peru was the easiest/friendliest/freest border crossing yet. Since Peru is so large I picked up a $100 worth of bongos at the border - normally I just go to an ATM - 2/3 of them turned out to be counterfeit that the first gas station attendant spotted; asi la vida. Spent last night in a sleepy little coastal village at a Sheraton, not The Sheraton, no hot water was my first clue. Why this place? Simple it is the only lodging in town. The owner was great and invited me to dine with his family - later I cruised bike into town and the taxi boys (literally, this country is full of 3-wheeled mopeds called mototaxis) had a million questions, see foto. Cruised south today making great time. The scenery goes from tropical jungle to arid ranges in about 2 hours then becomes rocky barren desert in just a few more. Unfortunately, when they don't burn their garbage they just take it to the desert and dump it - then the strong winds blow...

Got moto out of airport, same shit only they think they're more important - three inspections, four hours and 70 dollars later I hit the road - and nasty weather at 3200 M. Many trucks going 25 MPH all day - so dangerous I wanted off but there aren't any alternatives. They should rename the center of this place DOLE, they seem to own everything. I drove for an hour looking for a decent hotel - couldn't find one - the first place I pulled into charged by the hour and had a decidedly red neon with hearts theme - so I'm staying in a dump with no hot water and a gecko crawling around on the ceiling. My face is black from all the diesel exhaust and dust. Spectacular scenes - A travel day. Nick via BlackBerry

Went on the best excursion today. Got up at dark and joined a small group at a coffee shop then boarded a van for the trip out of the city - switched to a 4X4 loaded with mountain bikes on the roof an hour later and started up. At 11:30 we got to 4,400 meters and started climbing. An hour +/- later we were at 4,800 meters and reached a tiny lodge for a great lunch. Then we pressed on and 90 minutes later were at 5,000 meters (16,404 ft). An hour + to only go 200 meters you ask? In gravel - 7 inches up, slide three inches back, take a breath, repeat for 35 paced, stop and rest. We finally reached the ice cap, Try it! When we got down to the 4X4 later that afternoon we raced mountain bikes down hill through huge switch-backs to a lagoon at 3,500 meters. Unfortunately camera battery was dead and phone in hotel so I'm hoping a canadian women who took a few shots for me will forward them. If the customs office opens tomorrow I'll probably be heading toward the coast. E...

Read an nice article in the paper about a community about 3 hours south so I took a bus to check it out - the author must work for the tourism bureau. I'm off early tomorrow to hike and mountain bike volcano Cotopaxi. The bike? They lied, perhaps wednesday. Seems the custom service is closed with the rest of the city until then. Buenos Aires is more active on Christmas day than Quito for the past several - they keep reminding me that it's Carnival - I remind them that Rio doesn't become a morgue... Nick via BlackBerry