I had planned on traveling earlier this week but a nasty COLD weather system rolled up from the antarctic - it snowed just outside the city and the wind was crazy. I used the time to get new tires, change the sprockets and oil and clean the air filter. Heaven forbid a bath - that happened last year. Today, even with all my gear, it felt like I was riding in the extreme south.
I left the city heading inland and then north across the river.
There is an international motorcycle traveler's web site that I checked last night; riders warned of the police along the state-line between Buenos Aires and Entre Rios. True to form, I was pulled over for speeding, radar they claimed, but when I gestured to see the device that became unimportant. It became an obvious for-profit event when the only english word the officer knew was "cash" - my only spanish became "no". Threats were implied; shrugs were offered - I pointed to his ticket pad; a fine was proposed - my speed times two (126 kph X 2 = $252); I became the dumbest human this side of Bolivia and showed him my near-empty wallet; voices were raised; stupidity followed by frustration ensued. Finally he gave up, shoved my documents at me, and told me to be gone. I hesitated until he nearly pushed me away. I thanked him and twisted throttle. Another day on the road - It's become a comical art form.
I'm having my favorite meal in the world accompanied by local wine at a small parrilla in a 200 year old building in rural Argentina. Its a place with 21 tables, all full & with people waiting, and only one waiter - he's busting his hump, I'm laughing (everything was perfect) and leaving a big tip.
They have these huge monster-ugly fish mounted on the wall - normally I associate fresh-water fish with bait; these I might have to come back and visit when its warm.
While walking back to the hotel in the middle of a formerly trolley and cobble-stoned street I started laughing out loud - the mixture of ancient and new architecture among crumbling distorted sidewalks, ladies-who-lunch strolling the park, couples just going out for dinner at 11:30 on a thursday night and a ratty-loud moped scooting along on its way to deliver ice cream - so typical, but only here.
Tomorrow I'm travel north to Posadas, a sub-tropical region famous for its waterfalls.
Nick
via BlackBerry