I got lucky!
It is a winter school holiday now and they were booked full - the owner was on the property (rare) and insisted I take his cabin - he also has an older house on the property but the cabin has THE view. We shared a lunch and then I toured the property and discovered why he bought it - he owns a magnificent waterfall. I later heard the story about his country wide search until, after looking at 50 waterfalls, he discovered this one and found a way to buy it.
The posada is run like a micro resort with a wonderful family that oversees all operations and mom must have attended the regional culinary institute - spectacular food. I watched her make everything from the bread, to the soup, pasta, pasta filling (her mother made the ricotta cheese used in the ravioli filling), and the sauce from scratch, while one of the kids peeled apples that became manzana tarta for desert. Everything was served family style for all the guests. A real treat!
The cabins are rustic/artistic/functional and the upper property (previously clear cut) is just ok, but the placement of the cabins at the forest edge, combined with gracious hospitality really makes the place.
Later that night I learned that my cabin was 10 km away so we hopped in a 4X4 and headed out. The upper property has a small lodge and two cabins overlooking... the world.
In the morning I was served fresh juice, coffee con leche, and warm toast with homemade jams on my balcony. Then a chico offered me a trek on a trail used by ox carts directly through the jungle to the lower lodge - it was only three km so off we went - beautiful, but an enduro would have been challenged to travel it.
Back at the lodge I made the circuit of the falls again to get a foto and now I am heading out - it rained overnight and the weather is clear forever - the road south is calling...
If you get the opportunity to come here - do it.
Nick
via BlackBerry