I wandered the old working port and market early this morning. People were coming and going, transporting burlap bags of beans & provisions, small appliances and palates of fruit using proverbial tramp steamers (but diesel) and powered river canoes (like in Bangkok, an engine welded to a 3 meter long shaft with a bare prop on the end - that whole setup swivels at the stern and must be legend among its victims). I got a deal on some almost-Chanel sun glasses today, only 10 reals.
I spent the rest of the day exploring a jungle preserve. It was lovely and let me see creatures and the jungle up close - the Yosemite Valley of Belém. Next stop: I'm going to hop on the bike and try to find some unspoiled forest.