Santa Barbara to Buenos Aires, and then some...

Didn't make it very far today - 50% by design/50% fate. Tried to find tires in San Jose - only street tires available at several places. I will ride further south on these. Up at 2700 meters now and it gets cold, dark and foggy fast so I pulled into a micro lodge lest I become road kill. There is only 1 north/south route for the continent through very twisty narrow roads and the truck drivers must be Guatemalan. It will be interesting to walk a few trails in the early AM as there is nada happening this evening - early to bed... Saw several interesting animals today; got a ticket for going 97 in a 90 zone - I will just consider it a karma warning or payback for all the times I might have been going a little faster. A Costa Rican day, Nick via BlackBerry

Enough driving, time for a little touring. Went for a couple dives this morning and a lot of nothing this afternoon. Nick via BlackBerry

You know that imaginary line that runs between Tijuana and San Diego? Well, they put one down here too. Everything changes, even the natural landscape, Costa Rica is aptly named and really beautiful. First right that GPS said went to the coast I took. Wound up in a funky little place full of expats, locals and tourists of the boomer species. The foto is of the third or 4th of many lines I didn't stand in - ya' I paid another 2 fixers - one to get me out of Nicaragua ($7) and the other to get me into Costa Rica ($20 + 20 to shake hands with the jefe of the border so he would personally walk my stuff to the front of two long lines) and it still took 90 minutes. I'm sure I wouldn't want to deal with Fatherland Security either. I may run a little further south but I'm going to hang in CR for a couple days. Saw 5 bikes heading north, none at any borders to talk with. Nick via BlackBerry

Did a slow cruise through El Salvador this morning - detoured 20 k off road to a tiny fishing village at the southern-most tip; the tracks just ended and there was an old woman making pasteles from her front porch and people were bringing their own plates for take-out, so I stopped for lunch - 5 minutes later a couple kids came out - 15 minutes later ever boy between 6 and 12 within a mile was there. I let one climb on and they all needed a try - grandma just laughed. It was fun. You can't see a smile from behind a full-face helmet so I've taken to big dopey waves - cops get the Richard Nixon peace sign which they seem to like 'cause they flash lights and wave back. Leaving El Salvador was a breeze. I wouldn't wish trying to get into Honduras on anyone - well, maybe our Dim Wit. I thought I'd never pay one of the border vultures - today I paid and it was worth it. 5 different offices, 5 different fees, each needing a copy of something only available at the pr...

El Salvador is a kinder and gentler place than Guatemala. Its as beautiful as I remember and the guns seem less omni-present. Driving is a relative treat and entry into the country was simple and free. Last night I was begging for heat and today I'm staying at The Plaza (but not that Plaza) because it has A/C. There is a festival in al centro so I'm off to say hello. Nick via BlackBerry

No wonder I was a little cold yesterday - I crossed the mountains at altitude 3670 meters (12,000 feet) in the freezing rain. Electronic Fuel Injection is a good thing. Wanted to stay at the lake but too cold. Blew by about 100 cars waiting on construction just outside of town - the flag men looked at me and waived me through with a warning. I had the highway to myself for about 20 km. just twisted my way through Guatemala City - YIKES! On the highway for El Salvador now. Nick via BlackBerry

Guatemala is not for the timid! Visited San Christobal at night - it is nice - definitely popular with young europeans; you can tell when a bus or mini-collectivo rolls into town because there will be pods of under-dressed backpackers (the kind with back-packs not roll-aboards) scurrying about looking for shelter. I lied, its 2300 m or 7200 ft up and it gets cold (and lively) at night. Left for the frontier about 10 AM and immediately hit weather, high cross winds and light rain on twisty mountain roads. Had to bundle up, then dropped into the valley and baked - arrived at the border and checked out of Mexico painlessly (thankfully I did it by the book!) Then I headed south into Guatemala - only the road just ends, nada, it gradually turns into a maze of stands, stalls and confusion. I just did my best to follow the biggest, loudest truck - and then he stopped to chat. When I asked for directions people would just laugh or walk away. Finally a cab meandered up, looked, laughed, and...