Goggle Wipes

The good folks at Goggle Wipes sent me a box of their finest today! Its a great product that I use and like a lot (try them); they will be much appreciated next month in Bolivia, Peru and Chile. www.gogglewipes.com
Thank You!
Nick
via BlackBerry

Next... The high Andies and new territories in Norther Chile

Gearing up to go south next month; going to challenge Bolivia and Peru again, this time with company.
I'm heading down on September 10 to join a couple of friends for a ride leaving Buenos Aires to the norther frontier at Jujuy through Bolivia to Peru (Cusco/Machu Picchu) - alot of cold, high altitude riding - then we will drop down to the coast at Nazca (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nazca_Lines) on a challenging/nasty road (I know from experience)and head south through the desert (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atacama_Desert), diverting back into Bolivia for the Uyuni Salt Flats (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salar_de_Uyuni), and then further south in Chile before cutting back across the Andies at Salta Argentina and then on to Buenos Aires.
The photo is our planning session last month.

Somewhere in Uraguay there is a VERY large pile of Eucalyptus bark...

Traveled Concordia to la frontera at Colon - there was literally kilometers of trucks lined up at the border waiting for some magical paper allowing them to cross. I was greeted by an Aduana officer who couldn't figure out his job to save his life - even after he followed me through to the Uraguayan office asking inane questions (where was the paper I gave him 5 minutes ago...) - three times - before their jefe finally asked what his problem was...

While traveling south, cutting across most of the country, I kept seeing these monster trailers loaded with eucalyptus logs that had been stripped of bark - lots of them. During a short lunch six trucks rolled past. I'm guessing there is at least 20 tons of logs on each - all heading to the controversial new pulp mill on the river, so I followed one - Cowabunga Batman, that place is HUGE. Argentine picketers have determined international foreign policy and the border crossing nearest the plant remains closed as a result.

My little paper mill excursion cost me time - I missed the cut off for the five o'clock ferry by ten minutes.

I crossed through several districts of Uraguay and didn't encounter one military, police, or tax check point - how do they survive?

Uraguay has become a country motivated by cheap chinese mopeds - they are everywhere, in droves or flocks or herds.

I'm on the Buquebus now and 5 minutes out of Buenos Aires. The crossing was expensive - U$ 2,166 bongos, about U$S100.

Just over 2,000 miles this trip.

Gotta go... Buenas noches

Nick

via BlackBerry

Back to Concordia - the Mesopatomia of Argentina (who knew?)

Did the grind back to Concordia - 660 km of medium to bad roads with construction along 60% of the route. They are building a true interstate system.
I'm convinced the cops in Entre Rios have a scam on - my GPS tells me when I'm crossing state lines so as I approached Entre Rios I dialed it back - sure enough, there is a check point just past the border and, true to form, I get signaled over for inspection. All the other checks today it's "where ya from" "where ya going", "have a good day" - at this check point the officers look at the bike, do a quick huddle, and a woman comes over; does she ask for license and title like and other document inspection? Nice try, Guess again... The first word out of her mouth is Seguro! She wants my proof of insurance, required by law, but which no foreigners have. When I reached into my wallet and pulled out my certificate she went bug-eyes, checked it against the bike, and then shouted over to her co-conspirators (in shock) - he has it! The jefe (boss) waved her off and she gave me my card, waved me off, turned around and stomped off. I smiled, cursed, and twisted throttle.
I'll say it again - I don't understand why they tollerate the police-state mentality on their roads.
BTW, Getting insurance took me, working with local friends making calls, two days. Then, when I got the policy in the mail several weeks later about 50% of the lines which had customer data were wrong and it took two trips and several faxed documents and several weeks more to correct the policy. Needless to say, when I renewed, I didn't shop the policy.
I'm back at the great parrilla I visited on the way north but changed hotels to one with a star (1) - likely issued in the 40's - but at least they had a room with something larger than a child's bed - the first place I checked into didn't, so I left .
Tomorrow I cross into Uruguay and run down the river to the old port of Colonia where I will catch the ferry to Buenos Aires. Its a longer day than staying in Argentina but Mr. Moto needs new papers and leaving the country is the easiest way to get them. I'm not looking forward to two international borders but when in Rome... play by their rules and smile (or leave, because it just doesn't pay to buck the system).
It's too bad I'm home tomorrow because I've just got all my moto-muscles in shape (well, almost; now I remember why I spent the $ on the custom seat, which I brought back to the USofA - stupid).
I'm also wondering why I've never seen Pamplona Chicken on a menu anywhere else? Try it!

Nick
via BlackBerry

La Bonita to Posadas

Heading south. Route 2 was designed for motos - no traffic, rolling hills with swoopy curves. I took it as far as I could before cutting across the state for the night - the selection further south on that road was slim and none and I didn't want to be forced to ride into the cold night (violins please).
En route I stopped at this little wide spot in the road and stumbled into a brazilian barbecue place extrordinaire! All the various meats plus salads and veggies you can eat for $28 pesos including the beer - Tasty! Even better - the place was full of fun locals speaking german with brazilian accents. The owner sat down to chat as he was serving me explaining about his crazy customers - when he got my story he and every teenager around had to go out and look at the bike.
The final run into Posadas was uneventful and I'm back at the same comfortable hotel.
Tomorrow I divert into Uruguay.
Nick
via BlackBerry

Posada La Bonita in the jungle along the Argentina-Brazil Border

Traveled all of 130 km yesterday to the Brazilian border and then along the river looking for a little piece of paradise - I found it at a little group of cabins called La Bonita 18 km off the paved road. German suggested it and the locals could believe I found it.
I got lucky!
It is a winter school holiday now and they were booked full - the owner was on the property (rare) and insisted I take his cabin - he also has an older house on the property but the cabin has THE view. We shared a lunch and then I toured the property and discovered why he bought it - he owns a magnificent waterfall. I later heard the story about his country wide search until, after looking at 50 waterfalls, he discovered this one and found a way to buy it.
The posada is run like a micro resort with a wonderful family that oversees all operations and mom must have attended the regional culinary institute - spectacular food. I watched her make everything from the bread, to the soup, pasta, pasta filling (her mother made the ricotta cheese used in the ravioli filling), and the sauce from scratch, while one of the kids peeled apples that became manzana tarta for desert. Everything was served family style for all the guests. A real treat!
The cabins are rustic/artistic/functional and the upper property (previously clear cut) is just ok, but the placement of the cabins at the forest edge, combined with gracious hospitality really makes the place.
Later that night I learned that my cabin was 10 km away so we hopped in a 4X4 and headed out. The upper property has a small lodge and two cabins overlooking... the world.
In the morning I was served fresh juice, coffee con leche, and warm toast with homemade jams on my balcony. Then a chico offered me a trek on a trail used by ox carts directly through the jungle to the lower lodge - it was only three km so off we went - beautiful, but an enduro would have been challenged to travel it.
Back at the lodge I made the circuit of the falls again to get a foto and now I am heading out - it rained overnight and the weather is clear forever - the road south is calling...
If you get the opportunity to come here - do it.
Nick
via BlackBerry