Partiendo de Buenos Aires

Had a delay yesterday and figured I'd call it good karma - took care of a couple last minute whatevers, had the oil changed, and went to a great old parrilla in San Telmo...
Had the traditional Cafe con leche and media lunas at La Pharmacie this morning (see, there is a god). It's a beautiful day for riding and I'm looking forward to Bahia Blanca tonight.
I'm off!
Nick
via BlackBerry

New Year '09 and Bike Mods in Buenos Aires

I arrived Buenos Aires just in time for New Years - I was traveling with the max allowable luggage but only three changes of cloths (literally).

I brought down a set of tires (not available here), a fender to replace my cracked front, a new fairing to replace a Bolivia damaged piece, a new chain, a spare seat (I'm taking the custom one home to use on the new bike), a heated grip kit and controllers (I'm never doing altitude again in the rain with freezing hands), a front fork brace (it shakes at speed with the agressive 50/50 tires - I learned the hard way in Mexico), new brake pads (super grippy HH front and rear), new waterproof outer gear and riding jacket (a lesson from Peru), misc small parts and hardware, slime, two cameras, two new laptops (I'm a tech mule for friends when I come south) --- they sell kitchen sinks and chain lube here so I didn't bring those althought I should have brought a new front chain sprocket...

I had the tires and chain put on and have installed the rest of the parts over the last week. Walter, my amigo that has the same bike, has been a great help. Last weekend we ripped the front end off to replace many parts and tighten every nut/bolt/screw I could touch.

Today I installed a switched circuit and the heated grips/controller - then found some old lumber laying around that I crammed it under the engine guard with the rear wheel hanging off a curb to get the back wheel off the ground so I could change the dogbones in the rear suspension - this gives it an extra inch of lift in the back - the weight of the bags will take care of that.

Then I rushed to Palermo Viejo to meet German for beers and to put the finishing touches on route planning. He has traveled far and wide down here and had some great advise.

The plan is to leave Tuesday morning for the east coast - then follow that south until there isn't any more. At Ushuaia, Argentina I turn around and head north along the spine of the Andes toward Valparaiso, Chile. That should take about 3 weeks or so and then I'll head back across the continent to Buenos Aires via Mendoza for some wine and Cordoba to visit with friends. Then I'll check into a hospital for a tune up. Actually, I need surgery to repair a broken tendon in my right shouler (torn rotator..) - getting young is a bitch.

Last time I traveled I thought I would/could map out the journey - that concept lasted about 4 days - this time it's a little less specific: drive south then north by northwest, then east.

Most of the work is done and about the only thing left to do is change the oil and pack - more later...

Big Trees in Northern California

Cruised south along the coast to Avenue of the Giants; Amazing! Did twistys 'till I was tired of them and headed inland to see family. More later.
Nick
via BlackBerry

New Toy, Strom II

On Tuesday I bid on and won an auction for a 2006 V-Strom. Almost identical to Mr. Moto - the seller (Dave) had even outfitted it with most of the stuff I had/wanted; about $2k in add-ons.
I got up at 4:30 this morning and boarded the 6 AM flight SBA to Medford Oregon where the Dave met me at the airport. A test drive and 90 minutes later I was making tracks for the coast.
The guy suggested that route 299 was one of the best motorcycle roads in california and I have to agree. The weather is glorious right now - a wonderful warm spell that should last through the weekend.
I pulled over when I hit the coast; going to spend the night in Arcada. Tomorrow I'm going to do a slow scenic trip down the coast through Fort Bragg and the Great Redwoods.
A great day!

Nick
via BlackBerry

4 Stars in Montevideo

I completed my after-burner run south; arrived MVD just after sunset.
Yesterday I asked a local friend with good taste(y) to send me a couple links for a nice hotel in the city- but not downtown. He sent me a couple links, both to the same hotel... Ask and ye shall receive. Anyway, I roll into town looking like death on a cracker and I'm cruising the malicon when I see a Grand hotel - so I whip it into their entrance thinking to get directions... Not necessary, this is the place; except they have rates published at reception and I'm not paying them. I ask chico con leche at reception to make some call for me because I'm doing moto diaries and just don't need 4 stars. He does, everyplace close is sold out so he cuts the price by 50% and I move in.

Yesterday I stayed in a DUMP, your basic negative one star hotel. I knew I was in trouble when I could see the bus station from my window.
The first week of riding is harder than 4 hours a day in the gym! Today was no exception; 10 hours in the saddle and I'm checking out the mini-bar. Probably a personal record for the most kilometers covered in a single day (down here that earns you a premium because they seem to be tougher). Nevermind that I also had an international border and the two respective (albiet easy) tax offices.
Tomorrow I will likely finish this segment and cross the river heading south.

Its tomorrow - and I'm in Colonia with a ticket on the fast barge accross the pond.
Nick
via BlackBerry

South

Montevideo or bust.
Nick
via BlackBerry