Almost forgot - what some people call pets other people call lunch

Returned to guest house between sites. The innkeeper was making lunch and when I expressed a little interest in the menu she invited me to join them. Mmmm, fried Guinea Pig, tastes like chicken, sort of...
Nick
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The ruins at Chan Chan and Sol y Luna

Did the cultural thing today. Chan Chan is a World Heritage Site but found the Temple of the Moon more captivating. It is older but better preserved as they built 5 subsequent temples, one over the other, and when excavated, you are able to see actual art and architecture dating from the time of Christ. Hired private guides for both sites who significantly contributing to making sites interesting.
Spent an hour talking with some Italians over breakfast who were in southern Peru last week - got some great tips.
The adobe structures in foto background are part of an old city along a fertile river region just inland from Trujillo.
Tomorrow I travel.
Nick
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Trujillo, Peru

Crossed into Peru yesterday. Made really good time and Peru was the easiest/friendliest/freest border crossing yet. Since Peru is so large I picked up a $100 worth of bongos at the border - normally I just go to an ATM - 2/3 of them turned out to be counterfeit that the first gas station attendant spotted; asi la vida.
Spent last night in a sleepy little coastal village at a Sheraton, not The Sheraton, no hot water was my first clue. Why this place? Simple it is the only lodging in town. The owner was great and invited me to dine with his family - later I cruised bike into town and the taxi boys (literally, this country is full of 3-wheeled mopeds called mototaxis) had a million questions, see foto.
Cruised south today making great time. The scenery goes from tropical jungle to arid ranges in about 2 hours then becomes rocky barren desert in just a few more. Unfortunately, when they don't burn their garbage they just take it to the desert and dump it - then the strong winds blow it forever - shredded black plastic bags clinging to everything that can eek out an existence is disheartening.
Pushed to get to this place with plenty of light - found a nice pseudo-hostel; the owner, an expat brit and his Peruvian wife, give archaeological tours of 8,000 year old sites surrounding the city - that's the plan for tomorrow (and I don't have any clean cloths so a layover is necessary).
Got the fotos of volcano hike but can't open them on phone - they'll keep.
Made it through a bunch of check-points today - I have a headlight modulator that flashes the lights from 30% to100% power every second - all the cops here think I know them and am flashing to get their attention - they hesitantly wave - I wave back and they continue the process by waving me through - I keep it on all the time - I know it gets attention on the highway, the entire trip everyone strobe flashes me - they see me coming, a good thing.
Peruvian bus drivers don't like to be passed - had them try to kill me on two occasions until I figured this out - as passing they intentionally pull into the passing lane cutting off advance and try to force you off the road at speed - accelerate hard is the rule. Then they only honk and wave their hand at you to try to distract you - almost as charming as Honduras throwing glass bottles at me from the back of trucks.
Doing some homework studying southern Peru where I want to spend a few days in the mountains.
Nick
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Guayaquil, Equador

Got moto out of airport, same shit only they think they're more important - three inspections, four hours and 70 dollars later I hit the road - and nasty weather at 3200 M. Many trucks going 25 MPH all day - so dangerous I wanted off but there aren't any alternatives.
They should rename the center of this place DOLE, they seem to own everything.
I drove for an hour looking for a decent hotel - couldn't find one - the first place I pulled into charged by the hour and had a decidedly red neon with hearts theme - so I'm staying in a dump with no hot water and a gecko crawling around on the ceiling. My face is black from all the diesel exhaust and dust.
Spectacular scenes - A travel day.
Nick
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Volcano Cotopaxi and Quito

Went on the best excursion today. Got up at dark and joined a small group at a coffee shop then boarded a van for the trip out of the city - switched to a 4X4 loaded with mountain bikes on the roof an hour later and started up. At 11:30 we got to 4,400 meters and started climbing. An hour +/- later we were at 4,800 meters and reached a tiny lodge for a great lunch. Then we pressed on and 90 minutes later were at 5,000 meters (16,404 ft). An hour + to only go 200 meters you ask? In gravel - 7 inches up, slide three inches back, take a breath, repeat for 35 paced, stop and rest. We finally reached the ice cap, Try it!
When we got down to the 4X4 later that afternoon we raced mountain bikes down hill through huge switch-backs to a lagoon at 3,500 meters.
Unfortunately camera battery was dead and phone in hotel so I'm hoping a canadian women who took a few shots for me will forward them.
If the customs office opens tomorrow I'll probably be heading toward the coast.
Exhausting but a Great Day!
Nick
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Quito and surroundings

Read an nice article in the paper about a community about 3 hours south so I took a bus to check it out - the author must work for the tourism bureau.
I'm off early tomorrow to hike and mountain bike volcano Cotopaxi.
The bike? They lied, perhaps wednesday.
Seems the custom service is closed with the rest of the city until then. Buenos Aires is more active on Christmas day than Quito for the past several - they keep reminding me that it's Carnival - I remind them that Rio doesn't become a morgue...
Nick
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